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In both cases (planned and actual), your grist ratio was similar to what I use on my 35L for large grain bills (1.6 qt/L). I’m guessing the mash was pretty soupy once you got recirculation going. Next time you could try to reduce mash water further to fit all the grain in and add it to the...

I had a very slow sparge last session, Rye IPA. This had local malt which I milled at .029 and standard malt milled at .032 including rye malt and flaked rye. The rye itself can cause a slow sparge, the mash was pretty gummy. Sparge took well over an hour. I hit my pre-boil SG but still managed...

I was having a terrible time achieving efficiencies. I have a barley crusher which was factory set to 0.039” and I dialed it down over a few brew sessions to 0.032”. The crush looks pretty normal to me and my sparge time averages maybe 30 mins. At this gap I’m getting 75% and into the 80s...

I’m milling at 0.032” (0.81mm), works great for me on a 35L. Only issue I have is with a few recipes where I use a local malt house - their grain seems to be smaller than typical, last brew was 0.29”

Its a PITA taking that pump apart to clean it. Happened to me once and I was using a hop spider.

I brew in a 35L Robobrew and converted some base malt to 2 lb DME, came out great

Yeah, I thought you meant during mash. The only possible benefit I see is to (slightly) speed up time to boil, assuming he‘s kicked the heat up, 168 to 212 degF

Isn’t it the point to run the wort through the mash? What am I missing here?

I try to keep the grain out of the boil kettle by avoiding overflows during the mash. This works for me, others in this thread don’t worry about it like I do. I also use the fine mesh screen on the malt pipe bottom, some people don’t use that. Even so, the wort in the boil kettle will have...

Try this. These are original 35L from Short Circuited Brewing. I thought they were standard now on BeerSmith.

I have the 35L, here’s the steps I take: Preheat 4 gallons to 168F, position it’s outlet above the mash pipe when setting above the brew kettle. Heat the mash to 168F after mash is complete (20 mins). Raise the malt pipe and sprinkle the water over the mash bed, maintaining some level over the...

For bigger beers, I substitute DME for base malt to keep my grain bill <=17 lb and my grist ratio >=1.6.

Thanks for the pics @RePete & @Cloud Surfer, I was struggling to understand what was the metal saddle.

I saw the kit on MoreBeer but didn’t buy yet - I‘m nervous about it’s BPA content especially with heightened temps. A few articles say the BPA risk is a myth but for all I know they were industry written articles...

I may try that! I do stir the hops in the spider every few minutes but never thought about recirculating into the spider (I don’t use the pump during boil).

I’ve been using the hop spider pretty religiously. I’m worried that it’s screen is so tight that I’m leaving flavor and aroma behind.

I don’t typically see hop matter. I use a 400 micron hop spider most of the time and have a smaller one that is 300 micron. At any rate, I hope your first all grain was successful!

You should be good at 80%. I look at SG (and mash efficiency) and pre boil volume, try to hit both numbers right on. I’m pretty anal about keeping grain and hops out of the boil so I don’t see a huge benefit from the whirlpool.

Did you check your pre-boil SG vs a target? This will give a good indication if your mash and sparge was successful. Seems to me there’s no hard rule on recirculation placement (my outlet is always above the liquid level) and I don’t use the top screen, others do it differently and are reporting...

Not much there for me. I’d like to see dual voltage like the Anvil. wondering if anyone on this thread has experience with Anvil as compared to the Robobrew//Brewzilla? I’d take a good look at it IF I were to replace, which I’m not planning to do.