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Sweet setup!

Did you receive my PM about the thrumometer this morning?

And the makeup air will be provided by a small basement window that will be open on the other side of the basement.

I haven't had any experience with the setup as I'm just building my first exhaust hood now as well. I PM'd the original developer/poster of the above picture and he said that it ran smoothly and only experienced some condensation within the fan housing that would drip out. I suspect that the...

I haven't had any experience with the setup as I'm just building my first exhaust hood now as well. I PM'd the original developer/poster of the above picture and he said that it ran smoothly and only experienced some condensation within the fan housing that would drip out. I suspect that the...

Another inexpensive option is to employ a rectangle Rubbermaid tote as your hood (Google: Rubbermaid exhaust hood brew). I was going to use the SS bowl or tote idea but I just so happen to have a Rubbermaid tote in the basement. I will be placing the fan up against the tote so that it's...

I broke a cardinal rule of electrical wiring and didn't check all circuits, just ground with my multimeter after the initial wiring. Thankfully I did confirm ground was in order but it never dawned on me that I could have misinterpreted the switch wiring diagram. After rewiring the switch, I...

PM sent

Bump for price reduction

+1 to augie Don't overthink the makeup air debacle, just crack a window or door. You don't need another pipe and fan coming into your basement (unless you have a monster cfm exhaust fan, but my small 400 cfm fan only needs an 8" passive opening (ie cracked basement window, now fan)

Not sure if everything would be "ideal" without makeup air but at least you don't have to concern yourself with potentially sucking the gaseous byproducts of combustion back into the house. I'd still try to leave a door or window cracked just a bit so that the exhaust flow is most efficient...

Yep. Still available

Price dropped on the mash tun. $65 for everything or I will part out the cooler and false bottom with bulk head for $35 each

15 gal Tall Boy and chiller sold

So after a successful install of the 30 amp outlet and breaker then initial firing of the panel, I blew the SSR when changing the set value on the PID due to wiring the element switch incorrectly. Kinda scary when you feel a slight shock, hear a loud pop, and immediately hear the GFCI...

That what I was planning on doing. Auber has been great to me so far but after this I want a spare or two on hand and at double the price, I'd rather spend $20 and have two. Thanks for the input

Here's the DPST switch and diagram from the box. I wired both hots to the same side and same colored screws, but now I'm thinking the hots would go to opposite sides on the bottom and the outlet wires for each hot leg to the receptacle would come from the top sides and not the same side as I...

Looks like I may have misinterpreted the wiring diagram for the DPST switch, should the two hots be on opposite sides, at the bottom and not the same side? Has anyone else wiring a DPST 30 amp switch?

That was my first inspection. I have one hot leg going from the bus to SSR #1 then from SSR #2 to one side of the DPST switch. I have the other hot leg going from the bus to the 2nd terminal on the DPST switch. The switch is just input output so it shouldn't matter which side of the switch is...

So I got my 30 amp outlet installed, tested the voltage (246v at the receptacle), and plugged my panel in. I'm using an inline 30 amp GFCI cord from the panel to the outlet. The GFCI has a series of steps to determine its in working order, and it checked out (plug in, press test button, press...