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Thanks all you guys for the advice - eased my worry about the little bit of water left sloshing in the bottom of my plate chiller. Going to stay on top of immediately flushing / cleaning after brewing this time round, and not letting any wort the time to settle in and not want to leave.

I'm using a plate chiller - after getting it nice a clean I can see that a little bit of water is "trapped" in the plates below the invert of the lower ports. I guess the design means it is very difficult to drain this last bit because if you tip it over horizontal this little bit of water then...

So I am getting back into homebrewing, starting off with cleaning all my old gear. Been cleaning my plate chiller and after a fair few hours of hot caustic flush and rinsing it is now coming out clear with no fleks of crud. However after I drain out the water and then give it a shake it sounds...

Sampling the Locked-Down Porter this weekend - not too bad, definitely drinkable (need to clean my beer mugs too!) Also giving the old plate chiller a nice long hot caustic soak - going to be pumping 2% caustic through it for an hour then switch it over to pump the other way for another hour...

That's 180f sparge water, once mixed with the 153f mash it should drop below 170f in the mash. Also my understanding is tannin extraction is likely when both the temperature is above 170f and the mash pH is above 5.8 - which shouldn't (hopefully) be an issue unless you are over-sparging and your...

Which the higher abv of the final beer would also support that you are getting a more fermentable wort after switchingto 10G batchs. (Been a while since I brewed so maybe wait for confirmation of my suggestions, but) you could try increase the temperature of the sparge water since sparging with...

Getting back into homebrewing after a few years off - tried to restart during covid lock-downs in NZ but I only got one batch done... What I did for homebrew on the weekend = kegged that batch of porter that has been quietly waiting in the fermenter the last 1.5 years! :oops:

Section 4 - skin contact - now everytime it rains and I get wet I gotta strip naked... hope the cops are OK with safety being the excuse for public indecency!

Selling coffee and wine by the plate is a new concept!

Thanks rustbucket. Looking to a future upgrade myself and want to got hard piped with sanitary stainless tube and wanted to get a handle on what 1" tube would actually look like in context!

Could find a thread on this already with the forum search, so... Show us your welding carts! There are some amazing welders in this community (both pro and weekend warriors) and I want to steal all your best ideas! Finally looking to build a welding cart for my 150A DC only Tig setup so need...

Wow! Definitely some cognitive dissonance between your username and brew system! Out if interest what diameter sanitary tube have you used?

Yeah I should have mentioned that the "regular checking" would be much easier with the MyBrewBot as I wouldn't have to walk through the garage to get to check!

Thanks HH - although what I was thinking was to just to make a (calculated) assumption about the energy transferred while the fridge/freezer is switched on rather than calculate the heat transfer from the fermenter compared against a reference temp. And have the controller control the ramping...

Yeah you're right about the calorimetry, the only difference really is instead of trying to determine how much energy has been use down to the watt (or milli/micro/etc. -watt) it is way more rougher than that with measuring to the "yeah it's probably about time to bump it up a few degrees for a...

This thought just came to me last night but I wanted to get the collective Homebrew Talk wisdom on it first... I have always wanted to have better control over my set points during fermentation, but also I'm also a bit too lazy to keep checking on activity throughout fermentation - the...

Isn't that a bit low for US05? I normally would ferment with it around 68F. I have heard it will throw some weird peach-like flavours (and not in a good way) if it is too low

There doesn't seem to be a lot of info on chemical resistance of PLA, I would not hold my breath but the best bet would be to print out a test piece (or just get some of the PLA filament from the spool) and test it in some stars an to see if it gets brittle or starts to disintegrate.

Where do you get the idea that two piece valves are not meant to be disassembled? Remember that these valves are industrial items that us homebrewers have repurposed for our needs since they are cheaper than the valves a professional brewery would use and the extra effort to keep them clean...

Both types are designed to be taken apart. The purpose of the three piece design is so the threaded parts can stay in position when servicing (such as you not wanting to touch the soldered part while cleaning out your valve)