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Blichmann has some good videos on "how to tune the flame." If those aren't helping you could post a picture or two of your flame and see if some experienced Blichmann users can help diagnose. Just a thought.

I'm know you're trying to help just like everyone else so no problem. The OP asked for what he could try to increase his efficiency; crush is the biggest cluperate in low efficiency. I suggested which dial to turn and which way to turn it. How far? I don't know enough about what the final goal...

You should also try a finer crush. You can double crush your grains at your LHBS. With a double crush I get 82%, you should be able to get at least 75% on a full volume mash. It will also help to stir the mash a couple of time. Edit: I'm referring to mash efficiency.

Whooops. What pump NOT Why a pump. I use a March pump, Chugger pumps are great as well.

Yep, your gravity was off a bit. First thing to work on is your grain crush; most of the time this is the biggest issue. Next time double crush your grains, you'll come out much better. Missing the volume is a problem as well, you need to add more water, but more importantly it would...

If you haven't, talk to your LHBS about double crushing your grains, BIAB method can use a finer crush which will give you a better efficiency; although I agree consistency is king. Regarding mash tuns etc.; BIAB is going to brew as good a beer as possible, adding an HLT and MLT won't allow you...

I've always heard there are many more extract brewers than all grain brewers, so that's their bigger market. Does anyone know the percentage of extra brewers?

Biscuits and gravy with a Widmer hef.

What I do is at flameout recirculate through my plate chiller until I hit 170F, then just turn off the water running through the chiller and keep recirculating. I usually recirculate for 20 -30 min, the temp will drift from 170F down to 160F. Cheers.

With a HERMS you really don't need any electrically powered heating source. You need to monitor the temperature that's going through your HERMS (HLT) and back into your mash tun, correct? So you need a PID that can monitor temperature and turn on and off the burner under the HLT; the...

Even if you don't want to build anything it would still be worth looking on the Electrical Brewing and Automated Brewing threads if you haven't already. Cheers.

Couple of things to consider: Typically (not set in stone, although its the assumption BeerSmith makes), the hops added during the boil are removed at the end of he boil and only the post boil hops are present post boil. Isomerization of hops stops around 180F - 170F; if you don't cool...

I'm embarrassed that I going back to the original topic but someone has to do it. I'd say we just take over the term "all grain brewing." We should just assume everyone knows "all grain brewing" means BIAB. We could flood all the posts with "Oh, so you're not an all grain brewer, well...

Brewed an American Amber today with Cascades and Chinook, haven't used that combination before but have heard its really good. I did a 20 post boil whirlpool, cooled down to 165, added the hops, and drifted down to 155 after the 20 min whirlpool. I'll wait to taste it before I decide whether...

That brings up a question I've been trying to understand: What can you brew with a 3-vessel system that you can't brew with BIAB?

I'm a little disappointed in this thread, I thought we were going to get into the best way to get a 60 min boil out of a dresser and a night stand because you couldn't pack your burner. How much ice in the bathtub was required to cool 5 gallons unless of course you could tap into the fire...

You could go BIAB and spend more money on fermenting and kegging systems. In general if I had enough burner and kettle to do 5 gallon batches I'd spend on fermenting and kegging and come back around to 10 gallon batches as an upgrade. This is a cruel hobby of trade-offs. Cheers!

If a magnet will stick to your kettle you can look at induction cook plates. Cheers.

Would it be possible for the mash PH to get high enough to cause this?

I have the same setup and the same issue with the keggle thermometer. I found a 4 - 6 degree difference between the liquid outside the bag vs the grain temp inside the bag. Each time I stirred the mash the temp would change a few degrees. I removed my keggle thermometer and use an electronic...