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Yeah let's fight! Seriously though, I use the same IC I started with for my extract batches, and it works well enough for a 5 gallon full boil. Sure it does not take 2minutes to cool down the wort like a plate chiller would do. But the reason why I am not considering a plate chiller is that it...

I would definitely get a chiller. By cooling down faster, the quality of the beer I was making got significantly better. And you will need it anyway when doing full boils.

You will need some 1x10 if you want to have more than 2 ball locks in there. With insulation and the disconnects, 1x10 is just enough. I am able to fit 4 ball locks and a 2.5# tank. 5# will not fit inside. It is really tight, but it fits. I should post a pic or 2... One advice: get short shanks.

quoted from biabrewer.info, in the thread "FAQ: What are the pros & cons of varying kettle sizes?": I went for the 15.5g Bayou Classic, and I am very happy to have the extra room even though I am only brewing 5g batches.

Indeed it looks good. I was thinking the black would be a little dark with the wood/stain you already have, some other colors might highlight the wood better.

Have you decided which color you're gonna paint it ?

You can also have a double hinges design.

I think there is no consensus on this one. Whatever you decide to do, you can plan to have more wort that you can leave behind either in the pot or in the fermenter when bottling/kegging.

Are you looking for something with everything in a can, or a kit with some specialty grains, malt extract, and hops ?

With shipping, it is the same price as the SQ-14, which is shipped for free on amazon.

I read a lot of posts to choose a burner... I quickly realized that any of the bayou burners was a good choice, but there is no consensus on which one is the best. That being said, I went for the SQ-14 for those reasons: * very stable and large surface. I have a 15.5 gallon kettle, and this...

Do not forget that you will need a grain bag to brew an AHS PM.

I honestly think that rushing this is a mistake. Like in a bottle, beer needs to sit in the cold for one or two weeks to absorb the CO2 correctly. If the CO2 gets out of solution easily, you will end up with a batch of flat bottled beer.

To reply to the original post: kegging should not be the solution to avoid uneven carbonation. It is very easy to over carbonate bottle if: * you bottle too early. Make sure that the beer is done fermenting by taking some gravity readings a couple days apart. * you do not mix well the...

Yes this is possible, and some people probably do it this way, so that the carbing step is mixed with the fermenting step. You just have to be sure to transfer to the keg at the right moment. If the remaining gravity points are too high, the spunding valve will take care of releasing the excess...

Does this happen with all your kegs ? I know that beer from one of my kegs, because of a capricious poppet, will pour very slowly. But it is carbed like I want to, so it is not a big deal. +1

Same as azscoob: I have 8 kegs, but only 4 can fit in the keezer. So when it is time to keg a beer, I add the priming sugar, transfer the beer, purge with CO2 and seal. Then I forget it until I have room in the fridge. It works great.

Have you considered not attaching anything ? Double hinge designs are very convenient for regular maintenance as well as switching kegs.

What yeast did you use ? Maybe it has a small flocculation rate. Also, cold conditioning will definitely help clarify this beer.

What beverage do you plan on having on tap ? I am not sure the time to pour a pint should be a parameter to choose the pressure. Usually, you decide on: * the temperature * the volume of CO2 you want in solution. Using a table (that you can find in the stickies), those 2 parameters...