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The sensors have an accuracy of +/- 0.5°C, so it's possible that two sensors could be 1°C apart in the same environment. It is indeed possible to 'calibrate' the sensors with a simple offset: https://community.brewpi.com/t/solved-can-no-longer-calibrate-temp-sensors/469

I used a magnetic reed switch. Mine came from a battery-operated cupboard light which cost a dollar.

Basically, do not modify anything, and control the fridge by turning the power on and off via its power supply cord.

Yes, but it would be a huge effort for little purpose. The 1-wire sensors can be connected with very long wires, so it's probably unnecessary to use wireless. Or you could locate the Pi near the sensors and connect to the Pi remotely via WiFi.

Ok. Can you connect the SD card to the PC? A built-in card reader or USB reader? If so, when you put the card in it should pop up as a drive letter. That's your boot partition.

If you are doing it with the Pi, sudo nano /boot/wpa_supplicant.conf If you are doing it with Windows the boot partition is accessible when you put the SD card into a card reader. You can use your favourite editor to put a file there.

Remove the LED means literally what it says. No need to do anything afterwards, but make sure there is not a splash of solder joining the two pads where the LED used to be. Same with the diode. As for the 'how', well, let's just say experience is what you get just after you need it. You...

Eagle trains you to bang your head against the wall? Maybe that's why KiCad is becoming more popular. :)

Do you mean Eagle files? There's this: https://github.com/lachlanA/eagle-to-kicad Never tried it, but if you have a reasonably straightforward board it might be easier to redo from scratch. That way you get a learning experience and you can compare the end result with what you had from...

Why add two pins for the 9V supply? Surely the builder could solder leads to the pads where the barrel jack would have been? And RJ11 6p4c ought to be fine. If the outer two pins are not connected on the PCB then it doesn't matter if they are not present in the socket. The reverse is not...

Friends don't let friends use Fritzing. It has its place, but doing PCB layout is not it. I recommend KiCad, but a lot of hobbyists use Eagle (free version). It's a learning experience, but at least you'll be doing it properly.

You might want a few of these: http://www.dx.com/p/rj11-phone-cable-1-to-2-female-female-spliter-coupler-2671 They don't have the short RJ11 pigtail so you can make your own RJ11-RJ11 cable any length you need.

Cheaper for whom? Nicer compared to what? Since you are buying the components yourself it ought to be a wash. Buy two sockets for the box, or buy one​ socket and one splitter. But, you're missing the point. The point is that the 1-wire bus can have as many devices on it as you...

Have you soldered your sensors to an RJ11 cable yet? Here's the general idea, but double check the RJ11 pinout. I think it should be 1-Vdd, 2-Data and 3-Gnd. Pin 4 on the RJ11 is not connected...

They're in stock at Pimoroni. You could buy one right now.

For $10 you could get a Pi Zero W and try that with my software. I'm going to test this configuration in April, or May.

As long as the room is big enough for the sharks.

Great! Let me know how you get on.

This project just appeared on Hackaday. There might be some useful insight in the discussion (although I won't be holding my breath). http://hackaday.com/2017/03/01/iot-device-pulls-its-weight-in-home-brewing/

So it works, then.