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Just spraying starsan on the surface won't really passivate the metal, it needs to "soak" for about 20 minutes. Try this, give the conical a good cleaning with PBW, use a non abrasive sponge scrubber (or even the green scruby pads) on the areas where it's pitted. Once cleaned, close off all...

For the basket, give these guys a call: https://utahbiodieselsupply.com/brewingfilters.php#biab. They can custom make a BIAB basket to your specs, you can even tell them how high you want the stand off legs to be to clear the electric element. As for cutting out the bottom (now the top) of the...

I have two of their conicals, a 7 gallon and a 14 gallon, and have been using the 7 gallon one for almost two years and the 14 gallon for about a year. Neither one of them has ever developed pitting like you described and the interior where the wort sits, looks new. Did you passivate the...

Did you purchase the 1.5" TC ferrule? Just a suggestion with using the ripple elements: Although the element can fit through the 1.5 inch TC, go with a 2" one instead. It will make installing the ripple element and removing it MUCH easier without the worry of scraping against the inner diameter...

No mater how busy a company gets, if you can't communicate back to your customers in a timely fashion, no matter how great your product is, that's unacceptable. Why should anyone "hunt down" a person at a company? If they publish a phone number for customers to call on, have someone man that...

Switch that around, Oxygenator/water treatment, stir plate then refractometer. Doesn't matter how well you get your yeast starters, without enough oxygen in your wort (even though agitating the wort is just as effective) your yeast won't thrive. Also, water affects the entire outcome in your...

I calibrate my pH meter prior to each use using calibration solution. Not only will it calibrate the meter but it will be a sanity check (a control) that the meter is measuring properly.

The ATC correction in most pH meters is only good up to about 110-120 degrees. If you measured the pH directly into your mash, chances are you where measuring at 150-155 degrees which will affect the pH measurement. Your best way to measure the pH (and it's the way I do it) is draw off a sample...

Also, make sure that you have the right temp probe programmed in the PID, there is an option in the PID to select from Thermo Coupling or RTD temp sensor. If your tempo sensor has three wires, chances are it's RTD. If your using an RTD and the PID is set to TC (or vice versa) it won't work...

You can't go wrong with Spike Brewing, I purchased two 20 gallon custom electric setup kettles, a BK and HLT. Price was right, Ben at Spike Brewing was fast in responding and the turn around time was pretty quick as well. Quality is top notch too...my brew rig with Spike kettles made it into...

That regulator should work. the only thing you want to make sure of is that it can go as low as 4 PSI (or .3 bar). I've read elsewhere that some MIG regulators start at 20-30 PSI. The one you linked to states that it can go as low as 0.

The way it should be wired is as follows: On the TA6 (refer to picture): - Pins 1 (Hot) and 2 (Neutral) are for 120Vac input. - Pins 3 & 4 connect to an alarm (buzzer/light) - Pins 5 & 6 are left empty - Pins 7 (+) & 8 (-) go to the SSR pins. Connect Pin 7 on the PID to the Positive 24VDC input...

Placing a pump inside an enclosed box is not a good idea, the pump needs air circulation to keep cool if you want it to last long. The best thing to do is mount the pump on an open frame stand to allow maximum air circulation. If you have concerns about any liquid splashing on the electric pump...

The only reason why pumps are mounted below the kettles is because most of the pumps we use are not self priming and we need gravity to do its work to prime the pumps, placing them as low as possible is ideal but not required. With that said, you can place your pumps anywhere you want just as...

I used to worry about that as well so for a little while, whenever I used my refractometer I also used my Hydro to verify until I was comfortable with it. I've made light beers all the way up to Stouts and the measurement between the hydro and refractometer may have been off by .0001 a few...

If it's like the one I have then it's as follows: Starting from the left top 1- 120v Hot lead 2- 120v Neutral lead 3- (-) Negative lead to the SSR VDC connection 4- (+) Positive lead to the SSR VDC connection 5- 120v Hot lead feed for the Alarm (there is a NC relay in the PID) 6- 120v Hot lead...

Are you using these hoses during mashing/Boil? If so, why soak them in StarSan to sanitize them. The Boiling wort sanitizes the hoses and fittings better than Starsan. In any event, replace the hoses for two reasons: 1. The discoloration on them 2. You're clamping down on the hoses to tight...

I have the same bottle filled with distilled water as well, been using it for 2 years now and very handy to place a few drops onto the Refractometer. I also use that bottle with the distilled water to clean the probes on my Ph meter before placing it into the storage solution.

I have Spike brewing kettles for my Brew and HLT kettle, I picked up the 20 gallon ones to make 5-15 gallons. For my Mashtun, I used an old 15.5 gallon keg that I cut the bottom out of leaving the top (with the neck where the spear goes into) intact. This allowed me to have a bottom drain Mash...

It really all comes down to how much of a current draw each device (freezer/heater) draws when it kicks on. If you undersized the UPS, you'll destroy the battery in it in no time and the thing will start beeping like crazy. Do you have any specs on the freezer and heater you're using?