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Working in the food business for many years, usually refrigeration units that size do not have an "on/off" switch. Most times they are hard wired (no plug) and there is an emergency cut off switch somewhere in the vicinity. Being that size system in a commercial setting, I would say it's a 220v...

What is the street name you live on? There is a Brewery here in NY called Captain Lawrence, the owner used to live on a street called Captain Lawrence, sometimes simpler is better....

It's not necessary, but, it will help maintain temps more efficiently especially if you're brewing outside and it's a little windy. If you're brewing inside like a commercial brewery, then I would skip insulation.

Second vote for a compression fitting for the probe.

You just need to slow your mill down on the 1.5 rollers as the larger rollers turn a bit slower (all gear ratios). That will reduce any husk tearing.

Having three rollers is basically double crushing your grain, similar to if you crushed your grain on your two roller then passed it through the mill a second time. If you're already getting good efficiency, why change?

Thanks dthompson79!

Just wanted to update this thread. After countless brews through this MashTun, it has worked incredible. 74% Brewhouse efficiency (I've been playing around with the crush on my grain mill) and only looses about .5 to 1 degree F in 60 minutes. Since the MashTun is high up and it is pretty...

Or build one yourself like I did: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=528153 :ban:

The only thing it seems he added to the Mark2 setup was a 1/2 inch CIP ball. What you see in the picture he posted, the plastic basin, pump and gray plastic pipe that is threaded onto the pump all come with the Mark2 (along with a few other fittings). You can get a 1/2 inch CIP ball from Amazon...

As someone who has used an 8 gallon kettle (brewing extract) on an electric stove many years ago, it's "OK" but takes a while to get 6 gallons up to boil. I was using a coil style electric stove and the burners are too small for the bottom of an 8 gallon kettle. I've heard of glass top stoves...

So, in the first pics of your keggle, the picture on the right where you used the BS on, the bottom of the keggle looks like it was scrubbed with a scrubby compared to the picture to the left.

Just use ice cubes with a little water and add salt to that to bring the temps down., that's what we used to do in Chem lab. It will be a lot quicker to make and you can buy the ice anywhere for cheap.

The glue and primer is toxic and can leech chemicals into your brew when heated up. As redlantern stated, build a new one but don't glue it together, just hand fit it all. There isn't any water pressure that will exert force on the pipes so no need to glue them together. Some brewers who make...

Look, you're already on the fence about if you're going to stick with BIAB or go three vessels. 1. Either get a cheap pot for now to brew BIAB or 2. Get a pot with all the ports welded on for upgrading to a 3 vessel system up front. It will be cheaper and a lot less of a pain to have...

I have a port as low as my drain valve on my electric kettle. Since you'll stir as you cool, you'll be able to monitor the temps. If you want to use your thermapen, that's fine too but I like to have things hands free especially if your using an immersion chiller and need to stir the wort as...

Go with a Spike kettle, you won't be disappointed. As for the false bottom, you can get it now and use it as a "support" for the grain bag in your BIAB and if you move to a 3 vessel all grain, you'll already have a false bottom for the Mashtun. Some BIAB brewers use a stainless wire shelf...

If you're building a MashTun from an old sanke keg and will be using a HERMS/RIMS setup to maintain temps, make it a bottom drain. With a bottom drain Mashtun, there will be no dead space which means no loss of wort. Norcal sells a false bottom for bottom draining kegs, it's hinged as well for...

You can but, freezing a block of water in the jokey box is not ideal. As the block melts around the tubing, it will create a void between the ice and tubing and you'll loose the cooling to the tubing. With Ice cubes, as the ice melts around the tubing it will collapse and make contact with the...

As others have said: 1st Hops added at first sign of boil and start your timer countdown @ 90min 2nd addition of hops is added when there is 45 min left to the boil: add hops after wort has been boiling for 45 min 3rd addition is when there is only 30 min left to the boil: add hops...