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It's hoppy by gosh, that's the point of this beer, but it's not very bitter. Lots of hop flavor and aroma though! I'd advise against the recommendation above to reduce dry hops to increase maltiness. Dry hops don't change the base beer, only add hop aroma and grassyness. The aroma of hops...

You proabably shook all the CO2 out of solution by shaking it. Don't do that. Give it a day or two, it should bubble again.

Not trying to be a Richard here, but what is your experience level in judging beer? Lots of things can have an affect on body/mouthfeel. Carbonation (biggest affect), bitterness, residual sugars, etc. At 1.016 it should be medium body IMO, but the bitterness is going to shock your...

You did it just right! Well done!

I estimated my yeast to be only 72% attn. level, which is the high end for the strain. I used this number because I mashed low, making a more fermentable wort, hoping to get the FG as low as possible. My calculation is 1.018 as the original posters. I could measure the FG on my finished beer...

002 is the White Labs sub for Wyeast 1968 (according to RebelBrewer) - I personally like the smack packs of Wyeast lately, they've been very good to me, reducing the number of starters I have to make.

Some feedback, I brewed this beer for my 180th batch of beer a couple weeks back. I had Zombie Dust in the past, so went from memory, but I was able to drive through and get some real Zombie Dust to compare against. I followed the recipe as written, I mashed VERY LOW because my experience...

^Jump right in and do a partial mash with a hoppy beer, it's proably better to learn on. However, after making this recipe all grain and trying it side by side, I honestly feel you could get by with only steeping the specialy grains (carafoam, melanoidin, crystal) and use straight up Gold malt...

8oz per 5 gallons adds a good whiskey character, that's approx 1 cup of bourbon added to the fermenter or bottling bucket. I prefer to add some whiskey soaked oak cubes to primary/secondary for 2-3 weeks when doing whiskey beers, but that's me. Just chuck 'em (and the liquid) in primary after...

Please do! Who doesn't love pictures of homebrew setups!? :)

The height of the Blichmann is optimized for boil off. Shorter pots are wider, more surface area exposed to the air, more evaporation. There are other intangables about the Blichmann I like. I'm not a sales rep...just a user. Sight glass tube integrated, temp gauge, ball valve, and the lid...

I recommend the Blichmann boil kettle. Worth every cent... albeit a couple more cents than other kettles! Google Spike Kettles for a good HLT option. Careful direct firing your mash tun! Don't scorch the mash! ~Adam

1. Alcohols can have a sweet aroma. Taste the beer. 2. Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Homebrew. 3. There is no magic rule on oak chips, only taste will tell you. I personally use oak cubes and get good flavor at 3 weeks. Chips work faster, so 1 week will give you some character, but it's best to...

Looks like it could be fat coagulated at the top...it floats (along with yeast). Kind-of like when you make a pot of chili, then put it in the fridge and look at it the next day.

68F is not low...especially if you are not using a cooling method like a waterbath. In my opinion, if you pitch enough yeast, you should only use 68F as a diaceytl rest temperature at end of fermentation. Low-mid 60's are your friend for most ale yeasts. I don't generally do a secondary...

I have a 1950's Norge chest freezer I picked up for $50 years ago from CL. It weighs something like 450 pounds empty, all steel, but it still works like a champ! Cheers, ~Adam

This is an AWESOME explanation, thank you sweetcell. I was going to chime in, but you covered it well! A lot of folks think that the room temp is the temp of their beer during fermentation....NO SO. Fermenting above 70F is going to give you fusel (hot) alcohols and a lot of esters...

Keep it cool the first 1-4 days while fermentation is at it's highest. It's generating at least 5 degrees additional heat over room temperature! Cheers!

^Oxygenate your wort well...pitch enough yeast....be very clean! That's my advice. I agree, shaking is not enough, especially for high gravity beers. You can only get 8ppm MAX of Oxygen into the beer by shaking, and yeast likes 8-12ppm; so you're at the bottom of the desired range if you are...

I kegged my "ABS" on Sunday; OG 1.097 FG 1.023. It came off the oak, coffee beans, and I added a touch more bourbon to the keg. It's young, but was very clean. I'm excited to see how it turns out after 3 months of conditioning at room temp! Cheers! ~Adam