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I'm a little unclear why you are trying to keg early before FG is hit. I'm not a believer of hot-side oxidation, so I focus on post-fermentation DO reduction. I do not use secondary fermenter. I always dry hop on yeast and go straight to keg. I purge keg with CO2 and auto-siphon racking cane...

I encountered something interesting yesterday with my NE IIPA on tap, thought I would share. I was out of town for almost 2 weeks for business and personal travel. I went to pour a glass of the NE IIPA (and my new NE IPA on tap!) yesterday and I always blow a little beer out of the line when...

This was one of my concerns in racking off the yeast early, in addition to the potential 'green' flavors and VDK levels. Bugger to hear.

Sour taste or sourness or tartness are definitely indicating something else is going on, likely contamination. I would strongly suggest replacing all plastic parts that touch your finished wort and finished beer. Hoses, racking canes, maybe even your fermenter if it's questionable. More...

I'll politely disagree - I went 3.5 weeks (which included 3 dry hop additions) on my last NE IPA before kegging. No issues. I feel the steps above are not required if you are good about oxygen uptake during kegging. I believe most of the issues here are coming from the cold side and packaging...

I have a NE IPA on tap now, so I'll just share my experience with everyone. Be very selective with your ingredients on this beer, get fresh hops. Smell the hops before using. If there is *any* doubt or they don't smell amazeballs awesome, don't use them!

Its the extra or "massive" amount of hops in solution in this beer. Hops oxidize first, so *any* amount of oxygen will take them down quickly and the effect is more noticeable in this style of beer.

Chinook can sub for the Magnum in this beer. I personally like a bigger hop addition at flameout here, I use 2oz or so. Cheers!

I forgot I did buy a small cooler around batch ~80 to get my partial mash thing going. That was a nice step into all-grain.

I made about 100 extract / steeping grain beers before switching to all-grain. I got my hops, yeast, and cleanliness down in that time. The all-grain jump is fun, just more equipment, more variation. 228 beers later, I'm still happy. :) I brew extract every 10 beers or so just because it's...

In; like a boss!

Munich should be mashed, as the starch is not converted like crystal malts. Technicially Melanoidin malt should be mashed too. You can easily make change from steeping to mash with a small kitchen pot on your stove and a thermometer: - Use 5 cups of water for every 1 pound of grain. - Heat...

Are you in a homebrew club? Exchange some yeast locally? Local brewery? Lots of free yeast!! Just ask! I nailed down quite a few recipes using brewery donated WLP001. Beers would be fermenting in 4 hours with a large pitch of slurry! As mentioned above, NOT the same strain! S-04 is a...

007 is Dry English. WY1968 is DEF. not a dry (high attenuating) yeast strain. Your best comparison for yeast strains is here: http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm I'm not sure where Safale 004 fits into the mix...it's English-y in character, but I'm not sure where it finishes attentuation wise...

I'm chillin watching some NHL hockey and decided to get a Chicagoland-area beer to support my team; so I cracked open a 3 Floyds Zombie Dust that's ~6 months old. The beer has held up well, very well. It's been stored cold, served tonight at 50F. I want to mention that the stonefruit ester...

I'll add that hop pellets should be cautiously used in a keg and ALWAYS in a bag. Aside from clogging the poppet valve, hop pellets will sink without any weights. My experience is they then will suck up the dip tube, resulting in foamy foamy foamy pour. I've gone away from using hop pellets...

Dry hop in the primary...

The reason I suggest the corn sugar is because you cannot control the mash temperature of malt extract, so you cannot control the fermentability. It's fairly well agreed most malt extract is mashed mid-range temperature, so it ferments good, but not as dry as grains mashed in the low temp...

I would sub in 0.5 to 0.75 lbs of corn sugar in place of some extract. This will help dry the beer out some. If you're doing extract only, no grains, use the Light DME, not ultralight. ~Adam

I dry hop about 7 days into the process, usually the main fermentation is completed, so you won't lose a lot of aroma due to blow off of CO2. I dry hop directly into the primary fermenter, in a sanitized muslin bag. Depending on the fermentation temp with this yeast (London ESB), I like to...