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I did not auto tune after. I used P=5, I= 20, and D = Off

Good News! Did a double batch this weekend, and the new cals worked very well. I was off +/- 3 degrees on my mash, it would go over by 2-3 and then under by 2-3 so it was much better than the previous cals that would overshoot by about 10-15 degrees. Next step is to replace my small diameter...

Just checked what my Auto tune set it to. P - 1.2, I - 1052, D - 350. Makes sense why it didnt work lol.

I warned the brewer's of this batch about this. I did not open any of them, nor will I open them. Again, this was not my brew, it was a few of my buddies.

Ha no, we opened one upside-down into a pitcher.

On the bright side, the beer tasted great!

So i'm not a beginner, but thought this was a great place for me to post a nice little picture I took when a few buddies of mine cracked their first self made brew. So what happened, from my perspective, was a loud BANG and I see a fountain of beer shooting toward (and hitting) the ceiling...

I just pulled the trigger on a second pump to recirc HLT water. Hope that will help. Next test will be getting a 1/2" SS herms coil, but i'll have to modify some stuff for that.

I used 120v, for the HLT I only have 2000w to heat that water, but its a smaller HLT (5 gallon SS pot). The Herms coil is small (1/4" ID) 25' long. I auto tuned starting at 100F water up to mash temp of 154F. It took a while but it ended up working. I do NOT have a HLT recirc pump. I use a...

So, i made a herms setup, 3 tier, all that. My problem is that even after running auto tune, i will over shoot every single time, and not even by a little, by alot. I think i know my problem is that my herms coil is too small diameter as I only used some scrap copper i had lying around...

Yes. If you are going to use a PID to dial back boil rate, you need to use a PID with PWM output as well, i believe the Auber ones have this feature. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but would he also need a coil?

Simple. Do everything you just said, but instead of buying a second PID, but some 3 way switches instead of 2 way switches and have one pole be for BK and one for RIMS. THis does mean, however, that you have to have 2 plugs on your case for the heating elements and thermocouples. You can...

Valid points. I guess i'll have to rehydrate in the future, I was not aware of the evidence behind rehydrating vs not. Thanks for the input, i'm always trying to make better beer, and if this is one way to relieve stress on the yeast, i'll do it. :mug:

I did not rehydrate, and i believe while some suggest rehydrating to be good, there are others who say it can be bad as well. That being said, i only pitched 1 for 10 gallons at the start because that is all I had on hand. I picked up another pack at the LHBS the day after i brewed and pitched...

Do you do a starter even if its dry yeast? The recipe i used called for dry yeast, im sure others would work, but i've heard a starter isnt the best for dry yeast.. i've never tried it though although i have a stir plat and flask and all that.

No starter, but i got a second pack to pitch when i get home from work. 3 bucks is not much to ensure it ferments easily

I'm not worried at all, just wondered if anyone could chime in on how the changes in temp could affect the taste at the end. Only time will tell i guess. Expected OG (75%) was 1.049 at 11 gallons into the fermenters. I hit 1.058 at 11 gallons, which according to beersmith is 91% efficiency...

So i just did my first 10 gallon batch on my newly completed HERMS system. I did not know, however, that I needed to tune my PID. This caused problems, as you can probably imagine. So as I was brewing, my mash went from (target) 154 UP to 162, and then DOWN all the way to 140, until i...

Brewing up 10 gallons of an ESB over the weekend. I've not done 10 gallons on my setup or used my new PID Herms setup so i'm hoping for the best!

Ah thats right, I had heard about them through Michigan Mashers group. I still need to get some grain from them.