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"Like the idea of reusing the SSRs, not too fussed about bypassing the PIDs, but it i would also like to use the existing temp" You may not have a PID with communication capabilities. I use my PIDs as process thermometers during normal operation only. Every brewing station has a PID. The PIDs...

"I often but not always use something for head retention," I have never used anything extra for head retention; my beers all have a great head. "Yes, I’ll fight you over carapils" You can't win, my beers have foam without Carapils :bigmug:

For lunch, I will have a few homemade Kölsch. I made some minor changes for this brew, no Munich, and different hops. Weyermann 95% Pils, Weyermann 5% Vienna, and Hallertau Tradition.

Verify that the correct input device is selected, like RTD, TC, 4-20 mA, etc. Edit: You selected the correct input device #21=PT100 I downloaded the manual, and the last page has some interesting info. Compare all the parameters from the working PID with the non-working.

Sounds like the Black White House:D

As long as there is no warranty seal to break, do it. From the Industrial world I come from, the person on the plant floor doesn't have time or a drawing to remove the wires. Connect the new PID to 120, push a few buttons, if it all looks ok, pull the inside. Good luck :bigmug:

Congratulations on your first lager brew. "I’m only using the carapils for head retention." Will you brew the same beer again without Carapils to verify it is the magic ingredient for head retention?

This is my version of an Erdinger Dunkelweizen.

Kölsch quality control, including presentation, and an O2 tank ON sensor replacement. The sensor was a sticking reed switch.

Did you take any pictures showing the inside's power connections on the board and housing? Did you try to identify any fuses on the power section of the board? I was not clear enough with the jumper wire. I didn't mean a permanent connection, a great job on your part.

You are on the wrong side of the terminals; not the screw side, but the sliding inside contacts, as pictured above. The easy way to measure the voltage between the black and white is with a meter. Without the meter, connect the jumper from terminal #14 to the PID's lower black wire to bypass the...

@pfabsits a new one for you. Why should a homebrewer purchase your pH meter model 102 when they can get an $8.00 pH strip with a display and the same specifications, according to the ads? PH strips with a display are my definition of those yellow sticks.:D

Thanks for your response.

It can't be a fuse the lamp turns on, connected to the same feed. "I need to poke around with a multimeter, but I'm not very experienced with such things." his reply from the top when testing with a meter was recommended.

If the jumper wire doesn't work, lets remove the PID's inside without removing any wires to look for corrotion. Use my pics in the same order. We don't have to worry about the white wire, all lamps are working. Note: I am assuming your PID's hardware works like 95% of PIDs on the market. Look...

Please read my post again.

Any part can fail. Does the heat button light turn on? Edit: I found the answer. "I need to poke around with a multimeter, but I'm not very experienced with such things." Take a jumper wire from from the PID bottom black wire to the top black PID button wire. Does the PID turn on when the...

Is the ER button used to trigger an external GFI? In your ER button circuit I can see hidden resistors in the red wire.

"I did notice a low hum from the circled part (second picture) when I turned on the heating element" You are hearing the coil humming at 60 Hz, normal.

@pfabsits what is your opinion abaut the ISFET Solid state probes? One of my meters supports them.