Recent content by yorkeken

Received mine the other day... great fit & finish... looking forward to seeing how well it works with my setup. Just a tip for those choosing to shorten the bolts... screw on a nut (M8) before using the hacksaw, then remove the nut and it will reset the thread that was deformed during the cut.

Those tubing clamps are there simply to contain the wort when swapping/draining the tubing. Don’t need them but it makes things a little cleaner. The Blichmann Riptide pumps have an air vent bleed valve on the left side and the fluid level in the MT & BK are always higher than said valve so...

I have a side by side, 2 vessel, kettle rims setup using 2 pumps to circulate wort in a “figure 8” pattern. Originally I had the temperature probe placed where the wort returned to the MT (just ahead of the autosparge). I have since relocated the probe to the exit point on the BK close to the...

Had a similar issue. The likely culprit for me was moisture. After a little searching, I see that placing an o-ring around the element prongs fills the gap and creates a more moisture proof seal once the plug is in the locked position. Brewhardware suggests this one. Heating Element ORING...

I agree... seems to me there may be something wrong with the assembly.

Thanks for your comment. I have a 5500w ripple element in the boil kettle and separate MT with a FB. Mash temps are regulated using a PID with the temperature probe located at the outlet of the BK close to the element so the mash won’t overheat. It’s basically a figure 8 pattern of...

Not sure about the Spike Solo but this is working for me on my Spike boil kettle. Just some metal strapping I doubled over for strength and a clamp for security. Hasn't failed me yet. I ordered the "adjustable" ASOV option from Buckeye as the "fixed" option looked as though it wouldn't work...

Does anyone know which one of these counterflow chillers is better? Thinking of ditching my plate chiller so I can let my whirlpool hops swim freely. https://www.exchilerator.com/product/maxx-counterflow-wort-chiller/ https://www.zchillers.com/product/large-zchiller/

If just trub & yeast, 5.25 gallons should get you 5 gallons of finished beer. If you're planning to dry hop, you'll likely need 5.5 gallons in the fermenter at the very least. You're going to love the conical... it won't guarantee better beer but you'll have more control of the process. Good...

I have the Blichmann TC on my CF-5. Never had a problem.

I just purchased a Brewbag 400 micron bag for my 2 vessel, kettle rims setup where I recirculate wort between the MT & BK to maintain mash temps. I was wondering if I could tighten my grain mill, from .035 to somewhere between .025-.030 and not have too slow a recirculation or a stuck sparge...

Do you recirculate the mash with that fine a crush?

Get one of these for between the racking arm and fermenter. EZ to rotate and no leaks. Game changer...

Probably have to allow more time in the cold crash for the hop particles to settle. I found this video to be helpful when I was learning about closed transfers. I’ve since modified my process. I now purge my kegs with co2 from the fermentation blow off tube. When it comes time to keg, I burp any...

I don't think so. The PRV needs to be ahead of the blowoff to be effective... unless I too am missing something.