Recent content by Wizard_of_Frobozz

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  1. Wizard_of_Frobozz

    Just Bought Stainless Steel Table, What to Use Beneath HLT, MT and BK?

    I have wooden stand that I built, and I use a ceramic floor tile that I bought for about $1 at Lowes. Lots of different sizes to match up with whatever diameter your brew kettle is. It just sits on the stand underneath my kettle, and it doesn't scratch the wood, so I would imagine it would...
  2. Wizard_of_Frobozz

    RIMs vs HERMS....at 120v

    I've never found the need for a high-powered RIMS element, unless you are doing on-demand sparge water heating. My RIMS heater is 2,000W, which only pulls 16.7 amps at 120V - a 20 amp circuit will handle that, which are pretty common in kitchens and/or garages. Maintaining rest temperature...
  3. Wizard_of_Frobozz

    Frobozz's Magic (Electric) Brewery

    Thanks! The RIMS barely does anything during the main rest, but I do use it to raise the temperature up to around 167°F at the end. Only one brew session in so far, but I got around 2°F/min during that step. Still more fine tuning to go - once I go to BruControl, I'll get the flow meters...
  4. Wizard_of_Frobozz

    Frobozz's Magic (Electric) Brewery

    That's an excellent point; I hadn't considered that. I've never really run into a plugged pump during brewing - I have had issues with a lot of hops blocking it up after I'm done and I'm trying to flush out the lines. I very rarely do a massive hop load, so I might need to attempt a Pliny...
  5. Wizard_of_Frobozz

    Frobozz's Magic (Electric) Brewery

    Here's the old RIMS heater - it was only about 12" long, which was WAY too short. For those of you who doubt scorching happens, here's some photo evidence: And here's the new heater assembly: And the full rig: The pump suction tubing is thermoplastic, since I had it from the old system...
  6. Wizard_of_Frobozz

    Frobozz's Magic (Electric) Brewery

    Assembling the backplane for the electrical box: Making progress on the electrical: Electrical is done. You'll note all the extra space in the panel: That's like a garage - you can never have enough room! Eventually, the BCS is going to be replaced by an Arduino and BruControl, so I...
  7. Wizard_of_Frobozz

    Frobozz's Magic (Electric) Brewery

    It's been a long time coming, but the new system is finally assembled (for now...it's never going to be "done", since I'll always keep changing stuff!). The goal was to convert my old 3 vessel, 30 amp system into a 2 vessel 50 amp system. The old setup had several limitations that I wanted to...
  8. Wizard_of_Frobozz

    Boil kettle condenser - no overhead ventilation needed

    I used a 40mm and a file to clean off the burrs. The weldless bulkhead went through it but it was pretty tight. One extra millimeter would probably be ok, but be careful not to widen the hole too much when cleaning off the burrs.
  9. Wizard_of_Frobozz

    Keg King Fermentasaurus 2

    Nice looking unit - love the fact that the plunger stem does triple duty of operating the valve, being a thermowell, and a guide for the float ball. Very innovative! I also love the fact that it comes with the 2" triclover adapter so we can attach different fittings and not be stuck with a...
  10. Wizard_of_Frobozz

    Frobozz's Magic (Electric) Brewery

    Since we're all stuck doing our civic duty by avoiding other people (Introverts rejoice!), it was time to start some upgrades to the rig. First up - changes to the Kettle: New tri-clover heating element w/weldless bulkhead from @Bobby_M Wide-Body SteamSlayer (also from @Bobby_M) Whirlpool...
  11. Wizard_of_Frobozz

    Boil kettle condenser - no overhead ventilation needed

    Got my new widebody SteamSlayer installed. Works great - no steam in the Brew Room even at 100% power on the heating element. Thanks @Bobby_M for braving the evil virus and making this thing for us!
  12. Wizard_of_Frobozz

    Electric Home Brew Conversion

    If I understand correctly, you want to be able to run all 3 kettles at the same time? Depending on the size of the electric heating elements you install in those kettles, that is going to need a lot of power. Typically, people use a 5500W heating element in a kettle. Power = Volts x Amps...
  13. Wizard_of_Frobozz

    Boil kettle condenser - no overhead ventilation needed

    Placed my order this morning. For once, Bobby had everything I wanted to order in stock at the same time. Kudos for sacrificing yourself against the coronavirus so we could brew better beer!
  14. Wizard_of_Frobozz

    Home Brewery Drain

    I installed this drain in my brew room: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074SG3ZFZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I really like the rectangular shape vs. a round or square drain - it's a lot easier to squeegee water into it. Cutting the concrete wasn't too bad; used a...
  15. Wizard_of_Frobozz

    2.5 vessel single-element electric brewery

    Yes, that's why I do it that way. The lower density water will just sit on top of the higher density mash liquid as long as I put it in fairly slowly to prevent mixing. Then, when I start draining the mash tun, the water at the top flows down through and rinses the grains. When you consider...
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