Recent content by thomashp

The wire sizes would be the same. The main power connection to the control panel would be different. To wire the control panel in the US, most of the current comes from the two 120V legs (L1 and L2) that add to give you 240V. These conductors would both be sized for the max current. There might...

The issue with the pumps is that for AC pumps the frequency determines how fast they spin. If you use the European 240v 50Hz riptide on 60hz, it would spin faster than it is supposed to. If you found a 240V pump that was designed for 60Hz, it would run slow at 50Hz. This difference is pretty...

As for the heating elements, just make sure you run 240 volt elements. The change in Hertz will not effect them, the slightly lower voltage will give you 92% of the power. As for the rest of the controls, your 120v pumps would not work well. You would need a transformer to step down the voltage...

I would check the circuit with a clamp on ammeter to verify the current the breaker is tripping at. You can get a super cheap on eat harbor freight that does the job.

The rule of thumb for electrical circuits is not to load them more than 80%. 30amps x 80% = 24 amps. The 5500W elements would pull 23 amps at 240V and the 6500W elements would pull 27 amps. I would personally go with the 5500W elements. With the 6500W elements you are not technically overloading...

That is definitely how it works. The pi supports hardware PWM on GPIO12, GPIO13, GPIO18, GPIO19. One of these is connected to an ssr to control the duty cycle of the element. The craftbeerpi websiote gives some pretty good diagrams about how it is all wired up. Check it out. CraftBeerPi

Here's a thread about this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/one-vessel-ebiab-system-options-with-delayed-start-function.661419/ It looks the DSPR-3xx series EZboil will do what you want. SOmeone also did a video showing how to set it up.

I would do it like this. You can fuse all of your smaller wires at one point where it steps down from the 10 gauge wire. The volt meter would also need a fuse for the other hot leg. e

If you have 3 phase 208V, then this would be a Wye Connection. This would be three 208V hot legs and a neutral. Otherwise you would not be able to have 120V loads. You should be able to make either the delta or wye heating elements work with what you have, but it would be nice to see a wiring...

But what about that element firing lamp? It would be much safer on the DC side of the SSR.

Technically this wire should be protected with a breaker or fuse based in the size of the load. I have seen light sockets failed closed, especially the re-lampable types. This would be a bad situation if the light was wired directly to a 30A source. If there is a main power contractor used the...

Protip: The adhesive pads always fail after a while. Put a dot of super glue under the sticky-back to keep it there forever.

You can get tankless water heaters that hit 180. You wouldn't want another controller. They have an integral controller that works pretty damn good. There are people that do this. I visited a 3BBL Nonabrewery that did this exact thing for strike water. Here's some related threads...

I'll take a promo code!

Have you contacted the manufacturer of that control box? It might be a known issue. Some switching power supplies are know to trip GFCI breakers as well. I wonder what is in that control box.