I'd bet you could get away with construction adhesive (liquid nails) if applied correctly and you didn't care about ever removing it. If you want it to be serviceable I assume screwing/thru-bolting is your only choice.
I would have to double check but I want to say I ended up leaving the bar top at 8' total length. Depth is going to be right around 36" +/- if I recall correctly.
From the bar top I worked back towards the wall by building a bar-back just big enough for the kettles and leaving enough of a...
The area behind the bar is hardwood floor. Carpet would be a terrible idea in that area, agreed. I haven't had any problems with my spillage going anywhere other than on the hardwood floor areas.
If water starts getting to the carpet during a brew session I will know I've had far too much...
Why not use those components for your basement brewery and simply add electric elements? Sell the stands and burners once you've converted.
Seems to me like you'd be further ahead by keeping most of this stuff...
I used this fridge:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MPLYEW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
The size of the box I built off the front is basically the size the door could accommodate. I didn't want to go too large and have problems with cooling. With what you see there I can fit 4 kegs in...
For what it's worth the Sono's gear is awesome but still quite pricey. Since you have such easy access to the back sides of your walls have you considered in-wall speakers? I installed a total of (8) Polk in-wall speakers during my basement remodel along with a single Polk powered sub. I am...
I battled with this same issue. I ended up buying a glass door mini-fridge and built a box off the front. This allowed me 3+ kegs of space without needing to access it from the top. This is not the cheapest solution nor is it the most efficient (electric). But I couldn't make my setup work...