Recent content by sleepymonkey

Hell yes on the Chimay. And good luck trying to clone it! I've tried several times and made great beer but it's hard to beat those monks that brew it. I used belgian grain, light candi syrup and wlp250 monastery ale yeast. Anyhow, right now I'm having a Riverbank Red from Ghost River Brewing in...

I boil the bag and a stainless steel bolt that I put inside of it with the hop pellets to buoy it before adding it to the fermenter. That way it is not just sanitary but sterile, and you won't be adding a bag soaked with sanitizer to your beer. Just boil the bag and your weight for 10 minutes...

This is all just me, and if you are looking for a clone it may or not be what you want, but I usually try to stick to under 20% on the specialty malts like the crystals- though you are barely over that. If it were mine, I would probably sub that Munich that you have on hand for a little of that...

Pirate's Booty

You just make a starter with the saved yeast. It's pretty simple and just requires a small amount of DME. If you have a flask and stir-plate, you are definitely in business, but they aren't required.

Also, wouldn't you think they should refund $20 instead of $10 if they are admitting the product is faulty? Like instead of saying "Hey, sorry we sold you crap, here's half of your money back!"?

I affirm this. I've used Prime Dose once from a fellow brewer who tried it and refused to have anything else to do with it after having the capsules floating in his beer, and again months later ordered it on my own and have had the same problem. He told me Northern Brewer offered him a $10...

Thanks for the post, Brewtime, and IslandLizard I am having the same sort of problem. I entered Brewtime's recipe into BrewToad and it is giving me 49 IBU. Pretty close to your problem. I am not sure with the whirlpool process in homebrewing, either. I entered the whirlpool hops as flameout...

Firebat, I am just wondering why your second post lists the boil time as 90 minutes but in your first post the first hop addition is at 60. Did you boil for 30 minutes before adding the bittering hops? If so, why? Also, I'd like to hear how this turned out. This is an old thread, I know - not...

Oh yeah, I forgot to add that if you just toss the dry hops in (free-ballin!) it's much easier than using the bag I just mentioned, but keep in mind that if you are kegging you are gonna have a lot of hop particles in your beer and they will clog your liquid out tube. This can be resolved (topic...

I have a nylon hop bag and stainless steel hose barb that I'm not using (I've heard of marbles or whatever else people can sanitize and use for a weight- I'd be careful with hot-ass marbles if you boil them though) that I boil to sterilize, then I put the dry hops in and drop it in either the...

I'm not sure how many lbs. my tank is but it's one of the big ones that stands about waist high on me and I'm 6 ft. tall, and it's costs me $21 dollars for an exchange @ Nexair near my house. I brew 5-10 gallons per week and force carb and serve nearly all of that beer and one of those tanks...

It will be worth it. That is a good deal for the kegs with the included equipment. Kegging is much less of a pain, and you'll get good at force-carbing your beer and keeping it at the right pressure for your system with a little practice. Your beer won't go bad. It'll get better. Go for it...

I mean the link that GenIke posts isn't working. The link to my thread is fine. The link I just posted is very similar to GenIke's.

well, sorry, I see that link isn't working. I looked around for it and couldn't find it, but here is a very similar experiment. try this one http://www.creekwoodbrewing.com/brew-school/iodophor