Update: measured from hot to ground and it looked good. Boiling some water now and everything is holding up fine. Happy the GFCI tripped when part of it was dry firing, glad nothing seems damaged.
Ah makes sense, just tried it-- from either connector to the element surface reads as an open circuit, from the ground pin to the element surface reads as 0 resistance.
I guess i'll boil some water with it tomorrow and see if the GFCI trips again.
So, like I said, my GFCI tripped. After waiting for things to cool down I figured out the likely cause was this running dry -- due to me accidentally putting it in vertically instead of sideways. Is it toast? Is there likely some internal damage to it or something that caused the ground...
Yeah, since the only thing on the circuit is going to be the brewing equipment, my plan is just to use the neutral as a ground for the first iteration of this. This, plus an inline gfci.
Yeah, upgrading that particular circuit is actually not going to be too bad I hope (blessed with an unfinished basement and most of the wiring in the ceiling of that. I'm like 3 deep in recursive projects at the moment though, so I want to get this all put together before i tackle that...
Ah cool. Thats sort of what I figured -- since its a dedicated dryer only circuit, and i'll be using it as a dedicated circuit for this, using it as a ground seemed fine.
Really? Oh geez. So I just based this on a quick google of "10-30r wiring"... ala Google Image Result for http://waterheatertimer.org/images/3-pole-3-wire-250V-300.jpg
Looking a past the first image result, there's several diagrams that disagree: Google Image Result for...
So I have an old style 3 prong dryer outlet (nema 10-30r) that I want to use for power. My understanding is that this has 2 hots and a neutral wire.
I have purchased a still dragon controller kit -- then reading the instructions I realized they are for a 2 hots and a ground setup. Question 1...