Recent content by S0meB0dy

Night Before Crush grains Measure hop additions Brewday Fill HLT and heat to strike temp Mix mash well to break up doughballs Start mash recirculation Drink some beer Smoke a cigar Heat water to 170F and begin batch sparge Drain wort into kettle and bring to a boil Drink some...

Looks normal to me.

You can purchase a GFCI cord to plug directly into your dryer outlet and then connect that to your kettles. Check around on Ebay for a decent deal. The GFCI will work by comparing the current on the two hot lines and will trip if it detects any leakage between them. The neutral comes into...

I have been brewing with a 4500W lwd element in my e-keggle for about a year with no issues. I just plug it in and let it run full power. I have done both 5 and 10 gallon batches, low and high gravity. I just learned to compensate for the high rate of boil off. :mug:

I add my candi sugar in the last 5 minutes of the boil to make sure it dissolves and to reduce the chances of causing an infection. If you want to add the sugar during fermentation I would dissolve it in a small amount of boiling water, cool it and then add it in.

With a 10gal mashtun you won't be able to fit 9.5gal water plus 17.5lbs grain. I would mash in with 5.5gals of water at about 164F and the temperature should settle right around 150F. Once your mash is completed drain your MLT, add the remaining 4gal of water at about 175F, stir and drain again.

I would boil the sugar in a little water and cool it then add it to the fermenter.

What was the recipe and what was the OG?

I would reduce the oats to maybe 1lb. Same for the crystal malt. You will want to use some base malt in there as well. I would replace the belgian yeast with some american/english ale yeast. Belgian yeast may give you some fruitier flavors.

Do you have a tube on your spigot during testing? If not the siphon will be broken when the water level reaches the spigot level. If you are using a tube try tightening your fittings, maybe there is a small air leak that is breaking your siphon.

You will want a pump that is food grade and rated for temperatures up to boiling for you RIMs system. Chugger and March pumps are both common options among brewers. When doing all grain you put all of your grains together in the mash. No need to separate out specialty grains.

I wouldn't say dry yeast NEEDs to be rehydrated or liquid yeast NEEDs a starter but they are better practices then just pitching them directly into the wort. I have brewed many batches pitching dry yeast right on top of the wort without stirring and the beer turns out fine. The yeast knows...

By controlling the temperature of the mash you can control the sweetness of your wort. Mash lower and you get more fermentable sugars and a drier beer, mash higher and you get less fermentable sugars and a sweeter beer. Depending on the style you want to brew there could be some benefit to...

To be sure your beer is done fermenting you can take SG readings a few days apart and if they remain the same your beer is done. If it continues to drop then wait a little longer and test again. If you bottle before fermentation is done you risk creating some bottle bombs. As far as...

As long as you can see a dimple on top of your starter you should be good to go. You don't need a rapid vortex to keep the yeast in suspension.