Recent content by RollE2k

I think i may have som v1.1 boards, i have to check tomorrow. Cannot remember what the changes was to 1.11 though. Probably som small error just. So long since i built my two boards. you are also based in Sweden, if so i can probaby send you a board for a small fee. drop me a pm.

Correct, if you talk about my board.

Exactly.. You could even skip IC3, Q5 and TR1. all those are for "piggyback" LCD.. your lcd have the same function soldered on the small PCB at the back. IF you remove the small board. Solder the pin-headers the other way around to the back of the PCB. Then you could mount the LCD over those pin...

1. Depends on which pins is wich on the buttons.. the pinout of the headers is printed on the PCB: GND - A1 - A2 - A3 - A4 - GND So if pinout is 1 = button1, 2 = button2, 3 = button3, 4 = button4, 5 = ground.. then you should move int most to the right, ie: skip the most left pin. I don't have...

Sorry, i don't look at these forums much nowadays.. but here comes late anser. The Button cap for last line is actually missed.. the circuit should work fine without, but they do no harm being there. Could add last cap if i make an update. I actually had four caps at first, but when i made some...

Sorry I don't have any ideas. Maybe try change the PCF8574P to make sure it is not toasted. Hopefully you put the chip in a socket instead of solder direct, because it is a major pain in the ass to remove multiple legged through-hole chips.

Your LCD is not showing any text at all? If so are you using piggyback LCD on the back side of the PCB? Then the problem is most probably that you have to adjust the trimmer pot at the top until you see the text. Its for contrast setting. Otherwise if you don't get any button input it may be...

I have double checked the files in eagle, and correct - i have moved the resistor markings the wrong way.. so just go after the value printed on the board - R14 is lower and should be 470K, R10 is the upper one and should be 1K.

I think only the silkscreen of the resistor marking is moved wrong on the board. The lower resistor is connected to GND, and it should be 470K as said on the board. The upper should be 1K. I have only picture above to go after right now, but that should be correct. Let me known if it doesn't work.

I usually buy almost all my components from Mouser electronics, because they have pretty much everything, and they are super fast if they have it in stock. The problem is that you have to order for at least 50eur to get free postage. But that free postage is FedEx so it is fast. They also take...

Since i got a question regarding powersupply input in PM i take it here... to clarify it even more. *If you have 5V power supply then: Jumper "REG-BYP" and D4 (you can use D4 if you can increse power supply to 5.7v), Don't install regulator, and possibly skip some of the input caps. *If you...

Because you may run 12v relays, or other 12v hardware in the same box, which means you can still use same PSU for the board, as the other stuff. Also most PSUs are quite noisy, so filtering the PSU to the board does not hurt. Regarding components: if you have 5v input, you can hard-wire D4 and...

That is no problem for me, I have no commercial interest in this project. That regulator should work fine, yes. But if people are running 5v input, regulator is not needed.

Damn i see that the text is alot "wider" when pulling the prints than when editing in eagle.. the "compact" output terminals does not have text straight above each pad (GD A3 A2 A1 A0 GD). Shouldn't be any trouble for most people i guess!

Here you have download link for the PCB files - https://drive.google.com/open?id=17fn7bGRfCZOl3Ork7gRJEK2GKQiRCXMd This latest revision i have not tried myself, but i only swapped the Wemos D1-mini model to a new one, since the old one did not work with printing on the PCB. This new one should...