Recent content by questionasker

I would do what jeffmeh said, and just have two 120VAC outputs. This way, you can plug in a 12VDC adapter straight into the outlet, and if you decide to upgrade to a March/Chugger pump later, you don't have an unused 12VDC output.

Edit: Just found out the answer to my question. Sorry for the pointless post...

I found this on ebay a few days ago. It has auto temperature compensation, an SG scale, and is pretty cheap.

I get that there will be a difference between 220V input and 240V input. The reason why I ask is that I know what you get from the wall is never 240V. I believe it is usually lower than that. Lets say we have that element. It uses 3000W of power @ 220V. P=IV, so I=P/V. 3000W/220V=13.64A...

Thanks for the reply. I don't think mounting will be too much trouble, as drilling two holes for it should be easy enough.

So, after all this research I seem to have a general idea of what my setup is going to be. I plan to have a cheap Ebay PID controller and an SSR in a box which can be switched between elements. I am unsure as to what element to purchase, though. This will be used for heating strike/sparge...

I am in New Zealand. I have recently learnt that I will most likely have a 20A circuit in my house, so I'll check that out once I get home. Edit: Main circuits will be 20A, lighting or other circuits with less demand will be 10A.

Hey all I've been considering converting my system from stovetop to electric. I have a 50L stainless pot which is used as a HLT and a boil kettle. This will be wrapped in some form of insulation such as foam or hot water cylinder wrap. Before I go any further, I will mention that my power...