Recent content by NickL

Lets all just chill out a little bit. I wasn't arguing my math was correct. I was asking for a reference so I could fix it. Multiple reputable references use the apparently faulty equation: http://beersmith.com/blog/2011/07/14/keg-line-length-balancing-the-science-of-draft-beer/...

I have only seen 2.2 and 2.7 for 3/16 ID hoses. I chose the smaller of the available references to err on the side of caution. All of the 3/16 ID tubes on morebeer say 2.2 lbs/ft. Do you have a different reference?

Which calculator are you using? I Used the following: L = (P -(H x .5) – 1 ) / R Where: L = length of beer line in feet P = pressure set of regulator H = total height from center of keg to faucet in feet R = resistance of the line from the following table 1 = residual pressure remaining...

I am having trouble kegging a Berliner Weisse at 3.5 volumes. (I know that's on the high end) I keep getting the classic glass of foam and then flat beer when it settles down. I already increased the line length to a whopping 13 feet of 3/16 ID. I can get a good pour if I turn the pressure...

Nice! Thanks

My LHBS has pre-sealed 1 lb bags of everything for $2 or so depending on the grain. I have a couple half pounds left over. This would be a really cool club event. Everyone brings in a mini-mash of a couple different grains to share. I think i'll give a mini-mash a try and chomp on the same...

I'm always a bit dumbfounded when looking at a grain bill. Some brewers can spit grain bills for new beers out of their head, and they turn out great. They know exactly the flavor contribution of each grain. And when they wanted to tweak the flavor, they know exactly which grain to adjust...

I double checked this. It actually gives a range between 2 and 4 points haha. (American Sour Beers pg 273 in case anyone is curious)

Yep. Unless it's going to be in there for over a month, secondary isn't necessary.

Sometimes that can help. Just an idea for next time. Boil it with a little water to sanitize and dump it right in the fermenter.

That looks like it will get plenty funky. The "funk" comes from brett esterification. Phenol (from sacc) + ethanol = ester (funk+fruit+other) So to increase funkiness you want to produce more phenol's. This is why most sours are fermented with Belgian sacc. Siason yeast should work well also...

I would recommend waiting another month and seeing if you go down at all. Once you are sure it's stable then prime the same way you would with a clean beer. It only takes 2 points to fully carbonate a beer. So if you prime now, thinking it's stable, when it actually wants to drop to 0.998 then...

It can help to wait until after the initial fermentation is complete before adding the dextros. Sometimes the yeast won't ferment the longer chain sugars if you fill them up on the easy stuff. It can cause a high FG. But I agree with the above. Give it a week. I bet it drops some more. If not...

I agree with this. Also, I'm guilty of being nervous sometimes also. But the worst thing that can happen is you dump it (i've dumped a few), and then you have an excuse to brew again. In reality, with good sanitation practice, you will end up with drinkable beers every time. So just...

Good Point! I will update the OP. Sort of the same results as a sample. But I definitely need to say that explicitly. I have not. This is all theoretical. I don't have the equipment to pull that off. If someone had the gear to run that experiment I would be really interested in hearing the...