Recent content by Nic0

Thanks! I went back and checked, yeast used was wyeast 2035, recommended range is 48-58F. I'll probably set the cooler for 56-58 for a few weeks and pop a test bottle open. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

I've brewed and bottled many ales, but tomorrow I'm planning to bottle by first lager. I'm scared of change. And temperatures are all different than I'm used to. I don't have all the specs handy at the moment but the batch has been chilling between 35 and 37 degrees Fahrenheit for about 90...

Beer! Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Good point. But I'll have a look at those threads. Thanks! Nic

My wife loves Dr. Pepper. She loves it so much, in fact, that a can or bottle is often not good enough...it has to be from a fountain, and the convenience store 1/4 mile away from the house is sadly a frequent destination for the sole purpose of buying a 79 cent cup of fountain Dr. Pepper...

ANd I just re-read your post, apparently the C100 is intended only to control a heating circuit, not a cooling circuit. D'oh! At least for fermentation control. I guess I Could use one for winter fermentation control with a heater.

I Guess I was a little unclear in my original post... I had intended to use them to control both mash pump/heating element as well as boil heating element. And since they're so cheap, maybe another for freezer/fridge for fermentation temp control. I haven't bought anything yet and thus...

Do you have any photos of where the wires connect to the electrical terminals on the appliance?

I have not. Is it a thread dedicated to the C100 or is it just dedicated to PID controllers in general? I wasn't sure what thread you are talking about. Celsius temp reading/programming is not a problem. Is the TD4 only intended to work with a SSR?

Hopefully this horse hasn't been beaten to death. But I was searching for info on PID controllers since I had heard the REX C100 is an inexpensive and effective PID controller for homebrewing. I ran accross a thread that seemed to indicate that there are a lot of knock-off REX C100s from...

I'm no electrical enginer, electrician, or otherwise electrical expert, but I don't think the box has to be metal. I think it's more important that if the box IS metal, or even if it's a non-conductive material yet there is an electrical path exposed to the outside where somebody could...

I'm sure it was caused by something else...I still think I'll make a tube-in-tube chiller. I'm due for some upgrades soon anyway. Hopefully the bonus for last year is good...if so then beer toys are in my future.

Good to know there are others out there who think like me!