Recent content by nberna19

Bass is more along the lines of an Ordinary Bitter, and not a great representation of one either

Forgot to add that whatever weight(s) you use, make sure they weigh more than the total weight of the hops you are adding. Seems fairly obvious but I know of some who have overlooked this simple practice

A secondary is unnecessary imo. Just go ahead and bottle it and let it age for several months. Since your abv will be quite high, the yeast will have a difficult time consuming the priming sugar you'll be adding so come bottling time it would be best to add some new, fresh yeast.

The couple of times I added coffee to a stout I was quite pleased with the results. I brewed 2 cups (16 oz) coffee and let it cool in the freezer until it reached about 70 F. I then added it to the bottom of my corny keg, racked the fermented beer on top of it, and then carbonated as usual. If...

I once used 2 oz of dry hops in a pale ale and it turned out to be too resinous for my taste. Now I usually go with 1 oz for a pale ale and 1.5 oz for an IPA and am pleased with the results. As for absorption I wouldn't worry much at all about that. Just toss your hops in a sanitized hop bag...

The standard for ESB's would probably be Fuller's ESB from England which is widely available in the states. Others available from the UK include Wychwood Hobgoblin, Young's Special London Ale, Wells Bombardier; and US versions include Redhook ESB, New Belgium 2 Below Winter Ale, and Lefthand...

Recipe looks good. I like your hop schedule but I'd suggest adding some hops at flameout as well. I've never used Galaxy before but I hear good things. As far as Simcoe, I've used it as a dry hop and a little goes a long way, as it can be a bit overpowering imo. I typically use no more than 2 oz...

The rind of one lemon should do the trick. I'd toss it in with only a couple minutes left in the boil as to not extract a harsh bitterness from it. If you want some citrus flavors in the beer, citrus type hops such as Cascade, Centennial, Amarillo, Citra, etc. should provide more than enough...

I recently did a Black Rye IPA with an SRM of 27 and it was plenty dark enough; not brown, but black w/ ruby highlights when held to the light as jperry stated. The only thing I would question in the proposed recipe is the 1 lb of Crystal 40. I used half a pound of c40 with a FG of 1015 which...

Recipe looks good. If you don't want a lot of roasted flavors coming through I'd try to use Dehusked Carafa III aka Carafa Special III. It doesn't contain the husks from the barley which reduces its roastiness and astringency in the beer.

From my experiences of repitching yeast I can't say that I've experienced any negatives when pitching yeast from one beer to another. I'll pitch hoppy IPA yeast to a more malt focused beer style and vice versa and I really can't taste any of the first beer's flavors coming through. They say...

Munich is rich and complex, increases body and malt aroma, and adds a touch of malt sweetness and toastiness while providing a slight orange hue to the beer. I believe it's just a more highly kilned version of pale malt. Crystal malts are different in that they undergo a process that changes the...

Light Munich 10L

I think .75 lb of C60 and up to .5 lb of C120, C150, or Special B would work quite well. I agree with Seabass, IBU would definitely need to get higher in order to support the residual sugars; I'd go north of 60+ imo. Adding sugar is definitely a good option to spike up the OG and ABV. As for the...

I can't argue with that, Maris Otter makes for a superior malty beer. Looking at your grain bill, a few questions come to mind. Two pounds of Crystal 60 seems like too much imo; I would scale that down to no more than 0.75 lb, especially if you want to add the molasses. I can't say I see the...