I think the problem is my heat exchanger after much racking my brain.
I took the RTDs out of the kettles and turned everything on and let it sit for a while and the 3 MYPINs ended up being within 1 degree of each other. So it's not the probes or the PIDs.
My copper coil doesn't rest on the...
One of my MYPIN TA4's is reading about 8-10 degrees off the actual temperature. Wondering if people have had trouble with these and if there is an "auto calibrate" kind of feature or if there's a way to manually dial them in to the real temp.
Kal
I have a bottom draining MLT so I had to create some way to get access to the valve on it.
I just shoved some paper towels in a the holes to block paint from going into the receptacles and I love the way it turned out !
The Pumps at this point are not attached to the stand. They are on a little bracket that I built like the one Kal built in the Electric Brewery site.
As for the Mash tun, I've got a small home made hood that will only allow me to boil in the middle of the stand, this forces my hand a little...
Kal, I'm pretty confident I can get the PID's powered up and the RTD's connected properly so I didn't go through all the steps to get those in there...really just wanting to make sure I've got the basic power situation set up correctly and then if anyone had any expertise on the PID alarms...
Not sure how to get the resolution any better on this but here's a pdf and a JPG of the diagram.
Note: XLR receptacles are not in the wiring diagram but they will be grounded and wired to the PID's obviously.
Timer: not sure how to wire the alarms on the PID's if I'm not using an...
So here's my diagram so far...
I've got some feedback from a couple of site members that the 240v lights will work with 120v but just may be a bit dimmer. So right now I have it drawn up to have all the lights except for the element selector switch lights to be 120v with a L1 and Neutral...