Recent content by MercMan

Wish I'd known this earlier!

Check out eBay, last I looked you could buy 240V 30 Amp extension cords on eBay for a lot less than Home Depot prices.

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I suspect something has failed.

Tie your brew stand frame to your electrical ground.

Why won't some sort of circuit that switches between 2 elements work?

Or just buy a in-line GFCI from these guys and don't worry about installing a spa panel with a GFCI breaker. http://www.nssltd.com/

I think these guys do something like what you want with their controller, but I've not tried one. http://goo.gl/dwrhD0

A 40 Amp will run the same temperature as a 25 Amp. Dissipated wattage depends on the current passed through the SSR and not it's maximum rating. Passing 22.6 Amps through either one will result in about 22.6 watts of heat that you need to find a way to get rid of. If you have a limited...

I agree - running your brew pot with a PID is a waste of money. You don't even need a PID to monitor your brew pot temperature because water boils at 212F. If you don't want to build your own there are a few low cost ready made brew pot controllers on the market. $295.00 - High Gravity EBC...

Here is one step-by-step article for installing a heating element in your brew pot. http://www.instructables.com/id/Installing-a-water-tank-heating-element-in-a-Polar/ If you want to build you own controller you really need to check-out this site...

It's good that you posted this - sometimes conversations get a little out of control on some of these forums. I'd be interested but I have already pieced together the parts I need.

Time for a new Wife?

I just looked at their system - they have all the bases covered.

As long as you keep your wurt moving through your RIMS tube fast enough scorching is not an issue. With HERMS you use the HLT water to sparge. One nice thing about HERMS is your sparge water is ready as soon as your mash is done.