Recent content by Justdrumin

This is a pretty typical 5.5 gallon batch. Due to the wide kettle, I boil a little more than usual because of the outrageous boil off. I'd say it was around half full.

I've never been. We have driven by it several times. We have been to a few others in the area. We'll have to stop by this fall. They're pretty fun!

Yup. I wrapped it with that foil like bubble wrap from HD and secured it with two ratchet straps. Good idea! It's blown up!! My dad moved here in 05 when there was nothing here, but Buford is starting to overflow into Gainesville. That's why my wife and I are buyin a house up north.

lol. Well with the lid on it comes to a nice vigorous boil, but like I said, once you take the lid of it dies down to nothing. So with the lid on I'd be able to dial it back a bit. So yes, I suppose I could bang my head on the wall. On top of that, my wife and I are going to look at a house...

Thats good to know! It did produce a pretty rocking boil with the lid partially covering it. So I could still dial it back when it does come to a boil. I don't know what I'm going to do about all of that evil dms though. lol. I was not aware of not needing a good rolling boil. I may need to try...

Exactly! At max power I'm barely getting bubbles coming up from the elements when I should be getting a vigorous boil. The temp is being read by the thermocouple from my pid hard mounted to my kettle. I confirmed it with another digital thermometer as well. So the temp is correct. I'm still...

I appreciate your advice wilserbrewer. Many thanks. You sound like you've used the high watt density once or twice with very few issues. I may give it a go seein how they're only $10 at HD. That will put me at 3375w total. It'll be worth a shot. I bought your bundle package with the hoist and...

my HD doesn't carry any 2000w lwd elements otherwise that's what I would have bought. Only high watt. So I went with the 5500 lwd element because I have read countless times where guys have done with l less. I've read several threads where you preached it too. But I guess the large kettle is too...

I just double checked and it is without a doubt rated for 240v.

I was afraid of that. I thought it would be enough through my weeks of researching, but I didn't take the size into consideration. Although my kettle isn't aluminum, it's still rather large. I may just go back to PM on the stove until my wife and I buy a house. It shouldn't be more than 6 months...

I'll be able to do that for the one in the kettle, but my heat stick is all glued up. Maybe the kettle will be able to give me an idea for both if I plug it into one outlet, check, then plug it in the other outlet I use.

I did not check both breakers, but I know it was working because bubbles were forming around both elements. I started at around 120 degrees and if I'm not mistaken, it took around 30-45 min to get to 200 or so. Which is somewhat reasonable. Also not mentioned above, my kettle was also insulated...

By single element outlet I was referring to my controller build. I have an outlet on my controller for one element which is controlled by the pid and the heat stick is plugged directly into the wall. Yes, they're actually plugged into seperate 20 amp breakers. Kettle is 17" tall and 16" wide...

I just finished building a controller per one of PJ's diagrams. I made my control panel with a pid, single element outlet, pump outlet, switches for a pump, element and pid. One element is a 6000w element hard mounted in a 70 quart pot. I made a 5500w heat stick to supplement the single element...

Ok Bobby. I'm on board with you. With your experience and expertise I think I would be a fool not to listen to you. I was actually going to wire what needs to be 10 ga in the controller and supply the controller with 12 or 14 ga. So if I were to wire it to solely be 120v, would I just wire...