Hi everyone. Kind of a random question here. I carbonate my beer at around 30 psi for a few days and then reduce the pressure to serving pressure, usually around 12 psi. What I’m not quite sure of is whether I should be purging the keg when I reduce the pressure.
My common sense is telling me...
Hi everyone. I wanted to come post an update. I brewed the IPA recipe that I posted on here and it successfully went below 1.020 FG! It’s my first beer to go below that in months. Some tweaks that I made, based on suggestions in the thread:
- mashed at 148-150F, instead of 154F
- my LHBS...
The recipe is not from the brewery. It’s from my LHBS.
https://barleyshomebrewing.com/beer-recipes-from-barleys/all-grain-recipes/
It’s the recipe called Fast Tug. I’ll modify it to reduce the crystal malts.
No particular reason for the 12% crystal. I didn’t design the recipe. It’s a clone of an IPA that is locally available where I live called Fat Tug by Driftwood Brewery in Victoria BC. If I were to cut the crystal in half would I then make up that loss by adding to the 2-row? got example, if I...
I’m going to brew an IPA in the next couple days using Brew in a Bag method. I’ll do my best to incorporate the changes suggested by everyone here and report back once I have a FG. If anyone has any comments on the recipe I’ll post it here. 5 Gallon batch. Should be around 1.071 OG and 1.016 FG...
I tested the thermometer today (ThermoPro digital thermometer). 33.4F in ice water. So I’m guessing it’s not a thermometer issue?
Looks like I have a few things to try. Longer mash. Lower mash temp. Have the LHBS mill the grains twice. Limit dextrine heavy malts.
I’m not sure of the brand. My LHBS just lists it as Premium Canadian 2-Row Barley Malt (Pale Malt).
With that said, I’ve had this issue with 2 row and Maris Otter as my base. I’ll take your suggestions of trying to mash at 148F. Thank you!
Thanks for these suggestions. I’ve been mashing at 154F for 60mins, stirring once at 30mins and checking the temp. I insulate the kettle with a blanket but sometimes find it drops down to 150F after 30mins so I temp back up.
I think I’ll try your suggestion of a longer mash time and checking...
I tested my hydrometer and the calibration seems a bit off. I’m getting 1.002 in water. So not a huge amount. As I mentioned before, the beers taste fine but I certainly feel like they are lower in alcohol. The one thing I’ve been considering is doing a yeast starter for my next brew. I’ve never...
Here is the most recent recipe I made. 5 gallon batch. It’s a Session Amber Ale. I use a hydrometer to measure my OG and FG. OG was 1.050. FG was 1.020 (according to the hydrometer). I will say that I am pretty sure the hydrometer is giving accurate readings as I made a milk stout recently that...
Hi everyone. I just wanted to pick the brains of this community to see if I can figure why I can’t seem to get any of my beers to go below 1.020 FG. This has been an ongoing issue for months now. Many different styles. I hit my OG without issue. But fermentation always stops at 1.020. Some...
Hi all. I’m hoping someone can recommend a good recipe for a beer that would suit the cooling fall weather. Pale Ale or IPA are both fine. I do BIAB and keg in to cornies, so most recipes I do are 5-6 gallon. But I have BeerSmith so can convert any volume of what you have is more or less. I’m...
Thanks everyone for your replies. I have always left my hops in for the full amount of time that the recipe calls for. I was just wondering when there is a whirlpool addition if the hops that were put in during boil should be removed while the beer is cooling. For example if there is a 60 minute...
Yeah I’ve definitely never removed a hop addition during boil. In this case, boil is over and I’m cooling the beer to 170 degrees for a whirlpool addition. Sounds like from everyone’s replies that I should be leaving the first addition hops in the wort during cooling and during the whirlpool...