Recent content by joex444

You've been at this for 3 years, which is actually before I began but I'm surprised it's taken you so long to question this. Regardless, this will sound like an ******* thing but based on what you said, "when i bottle i add the priming solution to bottling bucket -1oz per gallon bottle "...

Physicist... experimental high energy (colliders).

Yes 150F for 30 minutes should convert the Munich. I would do this in 2-3 qts of water. No need to try sparging though (with a larger contribution of sugar from your grains it would be needed).

It's also easy to add an extension if you used flare nut connections. If your QDs have barbs, that's fine, you can use a flare on the end and have two separate QDs. But you'd want to convert the end of your current QD to a flare (female). Then you can pick up a new QD with a male flare on it...

Agreed, just look at how much sugar is used to carbonate beer. You'll have no problem using however much (or little) sugar you want to suit your taste.

It depends on the specific heat of barley. The pot loses a certain amount of thermal energy so to convert to temp loss you need specific heat. I'm not sure what that actually is but water has a high specific heat so my guess is barley is lower meaning it would perform worse. The net specific...

+5 bsda = 2509

Your OG seems high, 1.104 sounds right. I have a batch with 3787 atm and it has a couple inches of krausen. With an S lock I'd think you could have some problems. You can wait for fermentation to start then remove the airlock and cover with aluminum foil until it slows down. It will produce...

I doubt it. The cork mushrooms as the beer carbs and is pushed against the cap. That force should break the wax easily.

Another vote for the style you've brewed the most as extract. All recipes are combining grain with water and holding at a certain temperature. There's no temperature that is easier than others. I would avoid a high gravity beer as they tend to have lower efficiency and won't really help you...

I do 5 gallon batches indoors all-grain. I use a traditional converted cooler as a mash tun. I did try the brew-in-a-bag method for 2.5 gallon batches and found it to be a pain with about 8lbs of grain. But it really was a pain because I only had a 5gal pot. Sort of said enough of that and...

Not sure how you got those values, but indeed that grain bill for 3 gallons gives OG 1.105 at an efficiency of 83%. At 65%, you're at 1.082. And yes it is better to mash thick and have a large sparge volume. For high gravity batches, I'll mash in at 1qt/lb. Everything else gets 1.25qt/lb...

Was just going to post what Yooper did. Once you have a bag of grains you do the same whether its 12 lbs of MO or 1lb each 2row, Pils, MO, Ashburne, Maize, 6 row, Vienna, Munich, Munich 20L, and Crystal 40.

Just to revive a dead thread twice (mainly because it comes up on a google search for "perlick faucet leak"), I ran into this same problem today when adding two Perlick 525SS to a stainless 3" double tower. Sprayed beer everywhere when I connected the liquid out. I found that the Perlick had...

+2.5 gal Amber Ale +2.5 gal American Brown Ale +2.5 gal Cascazilla Clone +2.5 gal RIS +5 gal Schwarzbier +5 gal Wheat beer +5 gal Brown Ale +5 gal Celebration clone +5 gal Saison 15320+35=15355