Recent content by joeunc

I have used it sometimes and not used it sometimes, I can never really tell a difference. Proper amounts of healthy yeast is the key. Yeasts are pretty resilient these days. Whenever I get something from AHS I always throw it in. But if I do my own recipe at LHBS or order somewhere else I don't...

I have that as a recipe saved at Brewmasters Warehouse already priced out all grain. I currently have Biermuncher's OctoberFast Ale fermenting right now, ordering the grain for EDWorts Ale in a few days.

You can just batch sparge with it all at once. I mash, take 2 vorlaufs, get first runnings add all batch sparge water, stir like crazy, vorlauf twice, take 2nd runnings head to the fire.

i get get 6.5 boiling fine in 8gallon pot but I make sure to use fermcap and have never boiled over. I have a 15gallon also that I have barely used since the 8gallon has worked out fine.

I would say try their Fat Tire clone, it is really good and very close to original it is their second most popular kit.

i did it about a year ago, it was pretty good. Not overly hoppy not overly malty. Good balance and drinks easily. Definitely has the "red" look to it in the glass.

don't worry about give it a while longer to "start". Make sure you are in the temp ranges for your yeast. Then in 3 weeks minimum check your gravity and it will probably be ready to go to your serving vessel of choice.

What type of lager? True lager or an extract kit that says "lager" on the side. What was the yeast? Lager ferrmentation is different than an ale. Either way you are probably better leaving it in the primary if it's already been in those temps for a while now. If this is a true lager, you...

I find it easier to just maintain the same the whole time instead of jumping around. Whether or not the temp after the initial phase matters or not. I think it may be a cleaner, better beer with less off flavors if kept the same the whole time. At pitching have it at your set temp, and just...

+1, great guys to order from. In the past I had realized I had placed my ordered but needed to up my grain bill by about .5lb and they set it up for me no charge and didn't have to cancel and resubmit etc. Their crush is very good also.

I just calibrated my boiling pot with a dowel and marks for the gallon measurements. So I know when when I have 6.5 in the pot when I finish sparging. I boil about 1 gallon, have to make sure once the boil starts, you try to keep it steady and not go with a raging hard boil so I turn the gas...

True, I don't take many readings. I do one for the mash and then after the sparge(pre-boil SG), then I do one when going into the fermenter. I won't take another one for 3 or 4 weeks until I am ready to check FG. It will be a hydro and refract then. I know the calculations can help you...

9.) Even though I haven't done it yet, I am beginning to understand how much "fun" bottling is going to be. -=--==- I am sure you know,it's not much fun. You will be kegging in the future 10.) I need to think about how to control the fermentation and bottling temperatures. Right now...

got mine on ebay , from the "far east" as others have done. Just under $40 shipped. You still need your hydrometer though, good to have two readings. The refractometer I got was for beer and wine brewing and the scale already had plato on one side and SG on the other side, so no conversions...

same as the rest,,,oxyclean, hot water,, shake it all around let it soak overnight. Cleans fine.