Ya, i've been doing a 90 min mash (before and after my recent changes). Changed from batch to continuous sparge system which seems to have improved conversion efficiency a bit.
So i wanted to circle back on this one. I found that dialing back the grain crush has eliminated the off flavors (grainy, astringent). My efficiency went way down to the point where a 15lbs all-grain recipe (Kolsch) is giving me about 57% (1.048 OG) as a side effect of this though...
I also...
Tap water. Pretty hard here in Edmonton Alberta. I could test pH and adjust if I knew what the ideal pH should be. Also what is the ideal water to grain ratio?
My current faucet gets gummed up over time. Particularly when I'm not using it for a few days.
Which faucets to pubs use as mine looks more like this: http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/taps-faucets-pid-4933K.html
So I've done a few BIAB recipes of late and I've noticed a very grainy taste to the beer. There is no other way I can describe it other than that....and it's not great. It certainly doesn't seem right.
Could someone shed some light on why this would be?
1. Could my mash temperature be too...
So in my haste I forgot to put my Wyeast in the fridge after picking up my latest recipe. I woke up in the middle of the night and remembered it was on the counter in my supply box so I put it in the fridge.
Will this ruin the yeast since the home brew shop typically keeps it in the fridge...
Yah it's more of an issue with the OG being a tad high. Good to know though.
So this raises another question...when is it too late to add water? If the kegged product is off slightly can you add water and let it sit for a while?
My wort ended up at about 18L after my boil and I'd like to know if I can add water (sanitized) when I transfer it to the carboy in one week? The last kit I did I tried to short the water to increase final gravity but it just made the batch taste like garbage....which I'd like to avoid again...