It is frustrating that this website censors links to the other website which shall not be named. All of this stuff is covered in depth there. You will also find that the advanced posters from that other website are being banned from HBT so the answers won't be as good.
Anyway, the answer is...
I have not had luck with spunding and bottom feed dip tubes. I transfer clear wort to fermenter and found it took a long time for the beer to clear with bottom draw. Others have had better luck than me. I always use floating dip tubes to counter that issue.
There is no practical way to transfer finished beer to another vessel without introducing oxygen. That is why transferring to keg with residual extract left and spunding is the standard for low oxygen transfers, at the homebrew level at least.
Test should show a difference pretty quickly. The finished beer in the fermenting keg has been exposed to not much oxygen while the beer transferred to the keg will pick up oxygen and degrade.
I know that some commercial breweries and other homebrewers use 002 yeast for American IPAs with success but myself and a brewing mate found that it masks / strips hop flavour. I would recommend using 001 or other classic american IPA yeast.
That's just the starting point of issues for the mill. Have you checked to see if the mill gap is even at either end of the rollers? I have seen two reputable reports of the mill gaps not being even. Ridiculous for an expensive piece of gear. Check the gaps and if they aren't even throw it back...
Looking at your attachment the serving line diameter is way too large and the line way too short. At a guess the diameter is 1/2 inch and line is 1.5 feet (I don't work with imperial units). Yoir diameter needs to be reduced to 4 or 5mm and length increased to 3 feet long.
Not to belittle brulosophy on purpose but I would never recommend them for science and technology.
I listen to plenty of brewing podcasts but they are nearly all homebrew or BJCP based so no proper science or technology is covered. If you genuinely want to learn the science then there are...
@ mcknuckle If you don't mind wasting grain and hops then just brew more than you need to get to 2.5 gallons and dump the excess. Shouldn't need to use a different system.
I dislike Brulosophy but the 2020 survey had 30% BIAB and 27% all in one electric brewing (BIAB with a fancy name). This percentage reflects what I see in my local homebrew circle and this forum. So with the majority of brewers already doing BIAB I dont see the need to get energized about it as...
Over on the other forum some brewers have started replacing brewtan with acid from pomegranate. I think its called oleic acid but could be wrong (checked and it's ellagic acid). Supposed to be easier to source than brewtan.
I would pressurise the receiving keg to the same pressure as the fermenter, or a few PSI under and then spunding valve. If you transfer from say 10 PSI down to a low PSI you will get foaming once connected.