Recent content by GrimBrewer

The steeping intructions are fine. The steeping grains is only small % of your total "grain" bill thats why you do not need so much water upfront. But you can aslo steep in all the water. Following the recrpe instruction should mean you will get closer to what they aimed for, mainly IBU levels...

Get rid of the 30min hops. You get less ibu for your bucks and most if not all flavour/aroma gets boiled away. Rather increase the 60min for more ibu and add the rest at 10min, wirlpool or dryhop stage.

0.5 oz? Rather 0.5 pounds? You want atleast 15%+ flaked wheat or oats. Im also pretty sure you have to mash the grains you mentioned you wont get much from just steeping them.

"In March, the company announced its plans to be the Red Planet’s first brand of beer. Now, they’re taking their plan a step further by sending barley, beer’s key ingredient, into space next month" Reason not to want to go to Mars? Another one I mean. Shouldnt the first beer on mars be a...

Whirlpool for about 20 min. I cant get el dorado and rakau. Ive made a IPL with citra and mosaic that was good, really like the tropical flavour. Grain was 60% vienna, 30%munich, 5%crystal40 and 5%carapils. Going to make a NEPA with citra, mosaic and azacca tomorrow.

I didnt have a issue wth original grain bill. I do 5% crystal40 wth 5% dex wth 2row on average. Ive also gone from all 2row to vienna munich I mix. You only said non citrusy :confused: So tropical? :p What do want the malt to be, english?

So over two years Ive gone from extract to all grain. But this week a co-workers gave me a cooper draught can. He got it as a gift but dont yet want to "brew". It expires in 1 month. What should I do with the can? Will be us05 yeast, not a lager. Pale ale vs IPA? Any idea what gravity...

Second on reducing IBUs. I either hop at 60min or under 15min. If you are a hop freak....then longer than 15min is not worth it. You dont have to use 2row. If its munich I aka light, increase that a bit more to add a extra bit of malt. But i guess it comes down to what you want. Maltier vs...

Its fun to see beer fermenting. But big glass carboys are expensive and harder to use. I get my viewing fix :D from making small experimental brews in glass jugs.

If it works for you then dont stop. Its just what I picked up by looking at brewing with honey, ending up making meads. Its only in older recipes that you see someone boiling honey. So far I have not even pasteurized any honey in brewing.

You should add the honey shortly after primary fermentation is done to get the most honey flavour. If you are worried about sanitizing then add it just after you finish you boil. If you boil honey you lose most, if not all, of the aromatics.

Your issue may be the with the extract you are using. I came to realize that the DME I can get in SA is a lot less fermentable than online calculaters stated. With the "same" recipe, OG and yeast, FG would be lower for All Grain vs 50% extract. For instance Saison with 10%special malt and...

Yea, backup hydrometer is not a bad idea. Same goes for thermometer, if its glass get a backup. Dont bother with secondry unless you using fruit or making high gravity beer. It takes longer than you think ,when you brew for the first time. You could plan to make both but just double check...

Yes you could make a starter if you dont have enought dry yeast...or considering dry yeast isnt that expensive, just buy some more. Brulosophy has done a dry yeast pitch vs rehydration, if i remember correcly. Beers came out close enought that no one realy could notice the difference. There...

I dont see the point of secondry for a ipa. Dryhoping for 3 days or 7 should also not be such a big issue. I tend to dryhop when I think primary fermeting is done (avg 7 days). Take gravity and dryhop in one go. Then few days later when checking if gravity is stable I take the bag out (avg 7...