Ok, thanks for all replies, I will continue to cool in the boiler as I've done previously. I have a home made cooler, just small bore copper heating pipe wound round a former & some pipe fittings on each end, works a treat
"Please note it is important to have run off the wort via a BRUPAKS HOP STRAINER before using this wort chiller otherwise you will put all the proteins, coagulated during the "hot break", back into solution. "
I have always cooled my wort in the boiler then run off to aerate how important is...
My pal brought one back on the plane to UK as shipping was more than the keg cost. Very convenient to use, I dump in first few days to prevent clogging then again a few days later, leave for about 10 days then bottle. I have the rubber lid gasket but it's not really necessary so I don't use it...
I boil in a Burco electric 5 gal boiler, wait for it to boil then stick in the hops, it rises like mad so I just back off & on the power until it settles then it cruises away for the boil duration without any problem. I think it rises until the oxygen is driven off then it becomes more stable
Shepherd Neames latest ad campaign has been thrown out by ad standards in England (shame). Was as a crossword clue " German Lager (4)" The answer had the last two letters filled in with the letters SS in the form of lightening bolt shapes of the Schutz Staffel. Previous ads were "Spitfire Ale...
I empty the picnic box on any spare ground in the veg garden or as a mulch. Never use fertiliser, result good crops & plenty of worms, they love it. Then just rinse the box out, easy.
I,ve found in the past that too high a strike temp for mashing & maybe as well, a too high temp for sparging gave a phenolic harsh flavour. I keep the mash strike temp to about 73c & this is OK.