Recent content by Flyin

I converted a normal regulator to accept a paintball cylinder. I used a remote bottle adapter & a pipe nipple. Works great & i can turn the gas off if needed.

I finished a (120volt) box like the on in the pic above about 2 weeks ago Only used it in a smoker so far but still worked great & it boiled water. Next up is the 220v/120v toolbox control panel & pump box. All from P-J's drawings, just look around & you can find all you need. Only a few more...

If you have a 20Amp outlet go with a 2000watt element, You might want a 1500watt heatstick also to reduce your time to boil (plugged into a 2nd circuit). For your kettle look at the Bayou classic 36qt w/spigot (& basket if you want to BIAB). Good price & a solid kettle. you can remove the spigot...

I have a 6x6x4 box from Lowes (Carlon brand) and a SYL-2352 PID has about 1/4" to spare if top mounted. A 25a SSR w/heatsink clears no problem.

I've got a 20qt from MoreBeer & it has the same tooling marks in it. I guess this justifies the $$ for the knockout punches. I'm guessing a hole saw may end up doing the same thing.

I've thought about the vertical element but the small batch size (3.5g) & grain bag make it difficult. In my 12"dia. 20qt kettle w/ a 7.5" element it would need 3.67g just to cover the element. The bag wouldn't be so bad, normal bag with a "sock" in the center to go over a cut down Sanke...

Possibly some kind of passive in kettle RIMs. A tube over the element with a riser at one end should increase flow. Click for pic. Edit: added pic

Can't sleep so I'm up testing an idea. eBIAB kettle with a solid false bottom (upside down pie tin?) with a riser tube off to the side that stops at or just below the surface of the mash/wort. Much like an old perculator coffee pot but not needing to raise fluid above the surface. Would...

I've been lurking around here for a while so...Um... yeah...Some people might say I've got a plan. I have 20qt., 36qt. kettles & a converted keg. Planing to solder fittings in like in the SS sticky at the top of the DIY page. The two small kettles will be for BIAB, The keggle will be AG with a...

The 120v system is for brewing in my apartment where 240v is not available. I already have the PIDs, kettles, elements, SSRs for both systems. If 7500w is available why not use it.

Most likely only the 3g indoors. Edit: I'm slow, 10g finish in the keggle.

Just to be clear, 120v is not split off the 240v, I'm planing to run 2 cords to the wall, one for 120v/20a & the other for 240v/30a. Two complete & individual control systems sharing a common box & able to brew as 4 systems: 3g/120v/2000w (240v not available) 5g/240v/5500w 3g & 5g same time...

remove spear, invert keg, bottom of keg now top of keggle. There's a write-up somewhere, can't remember how it was plumbed exactly.

I'm starting my control box build & plan to have both 120v & 220v control systems in it. Can I run both at the same time in a keggle for 7500w or is there a reason this should not be done?

Considering that we're at the end of summer, I'd go this route. Should be plenty of sales on coolers & burners this time of year. If you're doing 5g batches a ~50qt cooler should be big enough. If you shop smart you might have enough left for a temp controller too.