I don't think anyone is speaking against the idea of steeping grains but the fact that pilsner malt is a base grain which needs to be mashed vs a flavoring/coloring grain which can be steeped. I think you can get plisner in an extract form probably LME. From what I can tell, still pretty new...
I would think the beer would go flat fairly quickly as you draw out your beer you're creating more head space and the CO2 that's dissolved in the beer would want to fill it to maintain the level of pressure that it has before you drew out the glass of beer. Keeping it colder might lessen the...
If you're getting the Better Bottle for primary fermenting get a 6 gallon BB. You will want the extra head space for the actual fermentation so you have less blowoff than if you didn't have the space. If you are wanting to use the BB as a secondary then get the 5 gallon as previously stated...
I have been a big fan of Oktoberfest, Irish Red ales for the most part. I starting to get into stouts and I think sweet stouts might be to my liking. I tried Dragon Stout a month or so back and I have really enjoyed the few I have had.
I'm pretty new to brewing but from what I've read and what I read in the recipe thread agrees is you'd add the honey and the bulk of the LME at the last 15 min. This would minimize scorching and give enough time in the boil to pasteurize the Honey and LME added at the 15min mark. That's what I...
The proper number is the one that comes up the same two to three times taken a day or two apart. If the number isn't changing that means it's finished fermenting and safe to bottle or move to a secondary if that is your plan.
Unless you had a secondary vessel small enough to hold just the few gallons I personally wouldn't want to risk oxidation with all the extra head space generated in new vessel. Just my 2 coppers
With a 4 gallon pot you'll upgrade to a larger part when you make the jump to full boil. If eventually go all grain again you'll end up in a bigger pot yet again. Then as you say you're not sure if you ever decide to make the jump to larger batches. There's a good chance you'll eventually be...
If I remember right dry yeast already has the cell count for brewing out of the pack. As stated earlier re-hydrating would lower yeast stress and also verify that the yeast is viable.
good to know there's a few brewers about. I'm still trying to get the work space organized and the funds together to get geared up but hope to have my first attempt fermenting by the end of the month.