Recent content by etk29321

I’m using a few HX711s with a esp32 and have never had any issues with them interfacing. My issues are all aligned with drift over time. I’m using them to measure kettle volume, which works fine but after an hour or so I find my tare reading has drifted by enough to make me annoyed. I also...

I did my glycol fern controller by starting with the tiltpi node red flows and adding to them. I already had some 1wire gpio/SSRs and temp sensors and discovered you can interface 1wire with the rpi gpio pins just with the help of a few resistors. I use node red dashboard on a touchscreen...

I used to have a ‘high efficiency’ room ac unit that showed similar behavior. It had a digital control board that seemed to artificially limit how long the compressor was allowed to stay on — to the point it couldn’t cool a room effectively. Fixing it required bypassing the control board and...

Same. I’ve only ever used water in blow off jars. Never had and issue. The bugs we care about cannot climb up the blowoff tube.

That looks like a roll on epoxy finish? Like garage floor coating? That’s not a bad idea. I’d go with that. I was referring to the bar top poured epoxy mentioned earlier in the thread where you could spend $100’s to put a crystal clear coat on plywood. That would be a waste in my mind.

I’d just fill with wood filler, sand, and paint it once and be done with it. Pine plywood is just not worth the trouble and expensive of an epoxy coat. You’ll never sand that kind of plywood smooth enough for a really finished look - but you can get it looking prettier and the paint will help...

3/8” is pretty small and could clog with a particularly vigorous fermentation. Elbows are prime locations to trap gunk too. That said, so long as you have reasonable headroom in your fermenter you’ll be fine. Leave a few inches and the krausen (Or enough of it) won’t make it to the tube to...

Yep. I believe that’s also the source of the “almond” flavor.

Here’s a pic of mine

I used the silver bubble wrap looking stuff. — which looks similar to what you have. The insulation needs to be tight around the vessel with no air gap and use aluminum tape (like The real stuff you use on duct work that isn’t “duck tape”) To seal it completely. If there is any space, sealing...

Wrapping with copper tubing is effective and much cheaper than the jacketed options out there. That’s what I did with my blichman conical when I went glycol. it is key though to then wrap it well with insulation. Even if your chiller is strong enough to not need it, an uninsulated fermenter...

Europe runs on 240v/50hz. Most dc power supplies for electronics these days take 120v/60hz (US standard) or 240v/50hz(EU standard) just so they have one part they can use globally. The hertz is important when you’re talking AC/DC conversion. The values of the capacitors and such in the supply...

I have used a bucket of ice water and a cheap Harbor freight sump pump to do essentially that. The ice would prechill the water coming out of the hose so I could get those last few degrees even when my tap water was too warm.

I remove hoses and hang them to dry each brew. I leave most of the other fittings assembled save a few on the kettle that tend to need hop and break residue cleaned out. If I try leaving the hoses on, everything stays just a bit damp and it starts to smell slightly. So long as everything has...

Did your conical not come with somewhere for a thermowell? I put the probe there. On my older blichman, I use a stopper with 2 holes — one for my bubbler and I slide a 18” stainless thermowell down the other so that the probe is in the beer.