Recent content by cmgray

According to Mr. Malty himself you want to use 1gm of DME per 10 ml of starter. So for a 1 liter starter, you would put 100gm of DME into the vessel and then fill with water to the 1 liter mark. Here's a link with Jamil's explaination Proper Yeast Pitching Rates

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding is that wheat malt is either red or white and there's not a huge difference between the 2. So techincally no such thing as just plain wheat malt. Briess Malt & Ingredients Co.: Base Malts

Thanks for the advice, looks like I should add some yeast. I was thinking that would probably be the case. @Sixbillionethans - You can get o2 absorbing caps that should suck up any that's left in the headspace if you're really concerned. Just be sure to soak them in warm water/sanitizer...

I brewed up 2 batches of flanders red last May and will be bottling them in the next couple of months. My question is if I want to bottle condition them, should I add in some more yeast since they've been sitting for a year? Or if not, how long should I expect it to take to carbonate...

Twitter / brewtility

You'll be wondering how you lived without the kegging equipment.

The best and easiest way would be to forget about the secondary. Lots of brewers skip the secondary and most that I've heard from say it's improved the quality of the beer. Just leave it in the primary for a few days or a week longer than you normally would and put it in the keg.

I'll agree that the later Jamil shows went a little downhill, but the earlier episodes were chock full of brewing tips and hints alongside great discussion of the topic style and how to brew it. That show pretty much taught me what was important in brewing.

I get that medicine/band-aid flavor all the time in my green beers. But a few weeks later it's always gone. I'm sure it's fine.

Probably not bad. Generally speaking the sooner the yeast get in the wort and start working, the lower your chance of infection. But if you had clean practices then there's most likely nothing to worry about.

I wouldn't bother with the Krausen technique unless you take a gravity reading and find that it's still too high. I can't imagine there's too much of a benefit from doing it otherwise. Also, you're probably past the point of being able to do an effective D-rest. Fermentation still needs...

The temp will be dependent on the yeast strain and the type of beer your making. Most yeasts will have an optimum fermentation temp listed. It's best to stay within that range unless you know what you're doing with it. Staying near the upper end of the range will be more likely to...

It's hard these days to find the exact hops you need, and even in good times, the alpha acids vary quite a bit. So it's nice even with tried and true recipes to be able to play around with the hop additions to get the IBU's just right given the hops you have to work with.

Ahh sorry. I misread the OP. In that case, unless it becomes a trend, I'd say you're fine. If it was an anomoly and your process hasn't changed. Then it was probably a crush problem, or maybe incomplete conversion. Did you do an iodine test?

What about using the Five Star 5.2 buffer. I'm not sure what the limits of the buffer are, but I'm guessing it would pull you mash pH right down to where it needs to be.