Recent content by Changeduser123

If beer is flat but you have a lot of foam, it means the CO2 is going out of solution. This can happen if: * beer is over carbonated * your beer lines/shangk/faucet are warm (if it is the case, the second beer in a row should be better) * your beer lines are too short to keep the CO2 in...

Like unionrdr suggests by asking his questions, I see 3 different reasons that could explain this: * you do not let the bottle rest in the fridge for enough time. As a consequence, CO2 is not in solution quite yet, and will get out as soon as you open the bottle. * you did not mix evenly the...

Regarding "dumb and ineffective", you are quoting someone else, so don't get too excited, please. You were clearly stating that you were seeing NO reason for using the in post. I gave you some valid ones, respectfully, and you bitch at me ? Some people really need to relax.... Cheers, and no...

I did not know this beer, but after looking it up, it is a 5% beer. Not that strong either. A cider can (and will) ferment lower to 1 if the temperature, the yeast and the nutrients are well maintained. 0.996 is what I get with the yeast and juice I use. Those few points make a nice difference...

I tried the cheap plastic clip with the 1/2" siphon. It is useless, as the weight of the tubing full of liquid will make it tip over.

What kind of beer do you drink ? :-)

Here are some reasons: * No need to switch the connections. * It is possible to drink/taste while it is carbing up. * As you said, it is not proven it is more effective. * As you said, using the out post might stir the beer slightly, which should be avoided if you want everything to settle down...

I own both auto-siphons (1/2" and 3/8"). I started with the smaller one, and I got the bigger one when I started brewing all grain to transfer cold wort from kettle to fermenter faster. It works OK for this purpose, and I thought that the bigger one would replace the smaller one for all my...

To add to the previous reply: even though some beer styles are calling for higher CO2 levels, chances are bottles you are using cannot handle so much pressure. I also carbonate everything at the same standard level, and I like it this way.

When it happened to my chiller, I removed the tubing from both ends of the chiller, cut off half an inch from each tubing to remove the part damaged by the clamp. Then put it back with the original screw on clamp PLUS a oetiker clamp. So now I have two clamps on each end, and it has not leaked...

You can start carbing with the CO2 tank now, and at any temperature, as long as you refer to the chart in the stickies to set your pressure. So you have to: * choose a carbonation level * know the temperature of you beer * check a chart like this one...

This is the exact same pot I have been using for extract brewing. Very sturdy, thick bottom (with a sandwiched aluminum core). I do not use it for brewing anymore as I moved away from extract, but I still use it for anything requiring a big pot. A good buy.

I am not sure why you would need to compensate your boil off rate by adding more grain .... Would you mind sharing your thoughts behind this ? Please detail your process and water volumes.

Mashing at a higher temperature will make your malt not as fermentable as it could, which will create a beer with more body (malty). But I tend to agree with iaefebs: your thermometer might not be accurate. Are you using the same thermometer that is sold with any starting kit ? I know that...

Was it partial mash ? if your mash temperature is too high, resulting sugars will not be as fermentable. Also, yeast can be a problem if: * it is too old * wort is not aerated enough to add oxygen. * stuck fermentation due to temperature to low or abrupt changes of temperature. You may...