Recent content by ByramMike

Chances are you will not oxidize the wort when adding the hops. During fermentation, as you've stated, CO2 stays on the surface of the beer... as long as you are not stirring or splashing the hops in, you'll be fine. Cover when you are done and let the pressure build back up and start pushing...

theseeker4 is correct, but recall that the fermentation process also yields carbon dioxide, and that stays as a layer over the top of the fermenting beer. You don't want to mess with it, as theseeker 4 says, but as long as you don't start stirring the beer up or gaze lovingly for too long at the...

Another option is carbonation tabs, or Cooper's carbonation drops. You will not always get the spot on carbonation the style calls for, but it beats measuring out sugar bottle by bottle. Just let the fermenter warm to about 60*, maybe a bit more, and start your bottling process... put a carb...

I've used oxyclean for 4 years now... I use it to clean everything. I don't soak anything in it for more than 15 minutes as it does leave residue - and I rinse everything that's come in contact with it. For kettles, I put a gallon in one vessel, scrub like heck and clean it up, and dump it into...

If you end up brewing both, put the Doppelbock in the chamber (assuming it's refrigerated and can maintain temps between 45*f and 55*f), and leave the trappist to ferment in a room 65*f to 75*f. If you can rig up a swamp cooler (a bucket with water and ice, and a towel to cover the fermenter) to...

I've never worried about oxidation during gravity tests, and for a couple of reasons. First, there is CO2 present in the beer as a result of fermentation... it rises and maintains a layer over the beer. CO2 is heavier than O2 so it stays low. Second, I do not stir the beer (or wort) to allow...

It's an uber light version of the PC version. I bought it, played with it a bit, then deleted it. I used it to record some recipe ideas I sometimes get drinking beer in airports... I don't recall if it had a the notes section like the PC version does.

You'll need to plug your recipe into a calculator to make that determination. If you are not using a software, like BeerSmith, look at John Palmer's book, "How to Brew". He includes the efficiency calculations... you can try to build it. However... I recommend a recipe software that will...

IPA's get some interesting flavors, unless it's a hop bomb, and then it's just that. The flavors are coming from the hops and yeast... influenced by the temperature the wort was fermented. ChemErik hit it on the head, the flavors and bitterness change over time, especially lighter beers. Don't...

I agree with ChemErik... too much on the roasted malt. The 1# is too much for me, but hey, this is your brew... give it a go and if you don't like it, drink up this batch, and adjust on the next one. Home brew experiments are delicious!

Give it a week to finish up.

I had a similar experience with my multi-rest experiments. The higher multi-step mash rests are good... the 143*f - 145*f as JimRausch says are worthwhile for dryer beers. I'll do a 10 minute rest at 122*f with some wheat beers.

I've just started SMaSH brewing... but I've been brewing for 5 years, developing my own recipes for 4. I've moved from infusion mash to temperature mashing, and I've done 1, 2, 2.5, 3.5 and 5 gallon size brews. And I love small batch BIAB as it give me a chance to experiement. As DromJohn said...

So what I think you're saying is, the measured Original Gravity of your IPA was 1.070, and the measured final gravity after two weeks is 1.030. The bulk of your sugars came from the LME and DME... the steeping grains are more for color and flavor, very little sugar is contributed. I don't see...

Overthinking it is half the fun! I recommend having a look at a few existing recipes for ingredients, percentages, yeasts, etc. Sampling some commercial or other homebrew versions can give you a sense of what you like... or maybe you already know! Then put something together that makes sense to...