Recent content by BROWN

thanks guys. i'll give those ideas a shot.

i know a lot of people put the gas on the out post when force carbing. if i did that, would it be a temporary fix that would prevent any leaking?

So I have a batch of amber ale that I fermented for three weeks. I moved it into my freshly cleaned and sanitized 5 gallon corny keg. After I did that, sealed the keg, and purged all the air in favor of CO2, I noticed some bubbles forming on the "out" valve. I released any gas that was still...

yeah, that makes sense. when i first started carbing at room temp, i was doing it with advice from a friend and didn't really do much research own my own beforehand. i was just taking his advice for it all. knowing that cold beer absorbs CO2 a ton better makes a world of difference. i'm glad...

it seems like getting the beer cold first made a huge difference. i kegged my first beer before i got my freezer and i ended up with all those problems. i kegged my second after i got the freezer and the process went a lot more smoothly. i basically ended up carbing the first (warmly carbed)...

in my very limited experience, i think either way can work. i didn't have much success by forcing the CO2 in and unhooking the lines though. i had much better success leaving the lines on for 24 hours at 30 PSI, then turning the gas off, unhooking the gas, purging the air, resetting the PSI...

ok, i've got a question that touches on a lot of things covered, but i want to make sure i do it right... kegged a beer and hit it with 10-15psi every couple days for two weeks at room temperature. then hit is with 30psi and agitated it, again at room temperature. i put it into a fridge a...

So i'm in the midst of fermenting for my first home brew, a pale ale...used a liquid wyeast activator and got healthy bubbling for the first few days. i'm eventually going to put the beer into a 5 gallon corny keg, which is where the problem comes in. i don't have a kegerator yet and my wife...