Recent content by brock_gonad

I function entirely on Brix now. There's lot of people here that will tell you the standard story that refractometers are useless once fermentation begins, but I disagree with that. In my experience the many available calculators that correct for refractometer readings of fermented beer work...

So I managed to bust my ebay special refractometer and feel lost without it. Even though there are a million vendors hawking refractometers, they all seem to come from the same manufacturers. They seem to fall into a couple of general buckets; * cheap/fleabay handheld in soft case *...

I strongly suspect it's because this is a seasonal item, and it's not exactly gardening season in Canada right now. If you're set on Home Depot, you may be waiting until Spring. However, it's worth noting that Home Hardware also sells this brand - check your brick and mortars. Bring the flare...

I disconnect the pump from the kettle, but have my plate chiller and pump still attached together. Lift the input hose high over my head, and you'd be surprised how much you can recover - though admittedly mostly from the chiller. I'd say at least a liter if you have a large plate chiller. It's...

Bleach is perfect good at sanitizing surfaces, but smells and tastes like bleach (crap). This is why most brewers use Star San. I don't have stats handy of course, but a browse through the *many* threads discussing this anecdotally shows that Star San has a lot of users. Star San works well, is...

For those out Western Canada, the above noted Flo Master is sold here too (at least in the Vancouver stores), while the Firestone posts are available from Hop Dawgs in Vernon, BC. Works like a champ!

Hi, I'm building a keezer collar - with 2x4's, or 2x6's. I'm wondering the ideal shank length to go through a 2" think piece of wood. ie: is a 3" shank just right, or is 4" better? I'm looking at a package that has 4" shanks in it, and wondering if it's too much excess or not. Thanks.

Thanks very much for checking. This is basically my dream setup... The "upgrades" start adding up unfortunately. $400 for the fridge from Costco, $360'ish for the triple tower with dual controls and Perlicks from OBK, and then another $80 x 4-6 for the little kegs... But that's a pretty sweet...

Ahh right - thanks for the tip. What about diameter? I assume that a shorter keg would be very slightly fatter... Are you able to fit 2 of the 13.5's side by side? The real goal is 4 of these inside the fridge without heavy mods, of course. Thanks.

Hey man, Where did you source your 2.5G kegs from? I'm looking at the 13.5" ones from Ontariobeerkegs. In an e-mail they tell me that 2 of them stacked up come out to 29". So you think 29" would not fit height wise into the fridge? What about diameter? The 2.5's noted above say 9"...

Hi guys, A couple of posts back people discussed the 29" height of a stacked set - does anyone know if that height plus regs will fit inside the standard Danby bar fridge that everyone uses as a kegerator? I'm putting together a kegerator wish list, and I split a lot of batches. I know that 2...

Give me some credit :) The 110V and 220V controllers are equally priced on ebay, but they are clearly marked. Since above, my setup has been working fine for nearly 4 weeks without incident.

Yes - I used the diagram above for 110v despite the labels saying 220 (ie: single 110 hot in, 110 cooling, 110 heating). Works great.

OK, I don't have a photo yet, but I can confirm that NOT breaking off the tab on the neutral side makes it all work as expected. To me, the above was the most clear of the many wiring diagrams Google will bring up. Note to others, do break off tab on hot side, do not break off tab on neutral...

That's what I suspected, but I don't want to start a fire if I transpose to another outlet and not break off the tab on the neutral side.