Recent content by BOBrob

look in DIY projects ; " most people use a after market temp. control off amazon. If the freezer works it just depends on how cold you like your beer.

I batch sparge myself. I also use a barley crusher; BUT it is set around .035 or as less. My grind is close to flour with hulls. A better grind should help and add as much water as needed to get preboil volume. the temp. of sparge water can also effect your gravity. Read the stickys and other...

I have .034 set for mine. you may like it tighter for BIAB. as tight as you can get it for wheat and mill wheat twice for a good crush. at .033- .034 I hit 85% on average. Cheers:mug:

you need to search "washing yeast" . that will get you all the answers and instuctions on how to save a yeast cake for future use. I dont understand what the bottle conitioning has to do with starting another batch? If I can use the same yeast for my next batch I will plan a brew day and...

Debate goes on da hook an da beer goes in da cooler next to da cheese-n-sausage. wit dat said wine is higher %abv.:mug: cheers:ban:

high and low pressure weather systems moving thru can cause suck back in air locks. Use a blow offtube.:D

YUP bad crush. If you can , have them tighten that sucker up a few notches. OR buy a barley mill and set it at .035 and get 75-80% eff. all the time. Cheers

+1 on this advice. My barley mill is now at .034 and never a stuck bed. the 80-85 eff. I get now is 10-12 points higher than the factory setting of .040. A good grind and knowing your system is a good start for all grain brewing. cheers;)

Look in the "equpment/saitation" forum; Bobby M. has a full write up On MLT size, efficiency, with grain wts. and water amounts. STICKY "this is how big your MLT needs to be". Great reading for new all grainers. Look to John Palmers book (free reading on line) for manifold plans. The stickys...

the one to go by is the sticky one on the fermenter. the air temp is not the temp to be concerned with. Fermentation temp is what you want to control, depending on the yeast used; 64* is a good average. To maintain the the temp of the fermenter thru the process is what needs to be done. Look...

I would recommed leaving it in the primary for at least 3weeks. This will allow the yeast to clean up after themselves and drop out of suspention to the bottom of your bucket. Cold crashing will further help clear the beer and solidify the yeast to a harder pancake in the bottom of the bucket...

+1 on what "neovox" said. I usually primary only 4weeks. take a hydrometer reading at 3 weeks just to make sure the brew has finished. the extra week is for yeast clean up and clearing of the beer before bottling. I would recomend a gentle stir of the primed brew (in the bucket) before begining...

What a great post!!! Seasons greeting from the great white noth, to all the folks on HB talk! I lurk more than I post ; but you can ask any question on almost any subject and get good honest answers without ridicule from the fine people involved here. A special thanks goes to our moderators for...

Hydrometers are calibrated at 60* and give a true read at that temp. Use water at 60* and see if you get a correct reading .999; if not at .999 at 60* adjust for the difference. It sounds like you are missing something in the mash. Stir the heck out of it at dough in, hit the mash temp. for...

What is the temp. they are being store at? You say in the basement ; ON the floor or on a shelf above the floor? conditioning needs a temp. around 65* 70* and can take months for big beers to condition, and 22oz. bottles longer. More people will chime in on the yeast addition, but sanitize as...