Recent content by binarybuddha

I forgot to mention, I did check the amp draw on the tankless at min flow, and it pulled a solid 50a. I might be able to modify the turbine on/off mechanism to enable it to energize at a slow flowrate. If so, this would enable the RIMS tube to cavitate/boil burp less, and have smoother, lower...

First test run with water, solid first test imo! :rockin: https://youtu.be/_JEIOoD22tU

Another update: The tankless water heater seems to work reasonably well. It kicks on about .2gpm, and raises the 50 degree ground water up to 130 or so. The RIMS can only take it up to 160 at .3gpm. I'm going to see how many amps it's pulling at such a slow flowrate. Perhaps I'll void any...

I couldn't figure out how to edit the second post in the thread. =/ Anyway, media update; so far so good! Front panel getting waterjet cut: https://youtu.be/nsC-2EPs4Y8 https://youtu.be/ZSaEG-gJ8Ec It lives =) https://youtu.be/5g0etw_avM8

Thanks PaulB! Hacking things is something I enjoy doing, so I might just do that. =)

I'm going to try it out, I hope so. =) If the tankless can go from 70 to 140F I think that will be easy enough for the 4500w element in the RIMS to take it another 40F to 180. I'll be running it at 240v, so it's actually a 12KW element, and will draw 60a of 240v, so I'm hoping with a slow flow...

Audiodoggy, Yeah, I also went through some research after the small hot water heater idea with the same conclusion. This unit's inside is made all of high-temp (I'm hoping food-grade) plastic. Gas and water LLC replied and assured this unit is rated for domestic potable water. The user's manual...

Not that amazon reviewers are authoritative, but I did ask this question before I purchased it. I also just emailed gas and water LLC to confirm as well.

And a few more images....

hopefully more images attached here in the future.

Greetings all, I'm starting to put together my brewstand, and figured I'd start a build thread. Here's my draft versions of: wiring diagram, high voltage/amp board, and low voltage/amp front panel layout, and liquid process attached. I'm quite open to any suggestions or feedback you might have. =)

I didn't even see this, you are absolutely correct good sir/madam!! Output range limits “OUTL” and “OUTH”

I wonder if this is something Auber could do easily in firmware or minor redesign? This is the exactly the application! With really clever single vessel solutions like Brewha, BrewEasy, and DIY BIAB I think this approach could work well.

I wonder what frequency the output of that unit is? Does anyone know what an SSR will do if the PWM signal is faster than 60Hz?

Thanks Bobby! I think it would certainly be under $20, especially if a small run of PCBs was made, say 20-50. I'm thinking of doing a 20, maybe 30% duty cycle, with plain water at 140F then auto-tuning the PID. For pre-strike heating, the PID will be calling for heat nonstop, so I'll crank it up...