Recent content by Bill_in_VA

I'd just hit it with enough of table sugar to return the ABV where you were shooting for and then let that ferment out. The additional alcohol from that should reduce the body sightly back to where it supposed to be and let it ride.

I think you are going to want a chugger pump. It is invaluable for batches 10 gallons+.

Lagers need such a high pitch rate having a cake is a great situation. Like moreb33rplz says I'd probably scoop like 2/3rds out and save. I started lager for the first time last winter and went gangbusters when I did, I went 5 or 6 generations on some 34/70 and several on s23 as well.

Here's my experience with partigyles. Always keep a bag of DME on hand for gravity corrections (sound like you intend to). The small beer will have a lighter color and lower body than predictions say. I normally add straight maltodextrin at packaging if I don't want a light body body beer and...

I brewed 50 batches before I ever did one twice. And I never understood the house beer thing until now. If I had never taken all that journey I wouldn't have stumbled on my current favorites. I think you can learn a lot from the variety of it. I change my system a lot too, I've brewed on...

It's common for the lids to not fully seal when not under pressure.

Lots of people do that. It'll be fine as long as you don't go super thick, you don't have to do a full volume mash with BIAB. As a benefit you can dunk the grain bag in the water you add to sparge it out and help efficiency.

I recommend S-23. I did a nice Baltic porter earlier this year and did a split fermentation on the batch with half W34/70 and half S-23. The S-23 has a nice fruitiness that really enhances stone fruit character the 34/70 was too clean. Bonus: S-23 tolerates higher temp than many lager yeast...

Safety first: make sure you have ground fault interrupt some where in the system. I can't be sure but I'd wager that element is toast. Does the circuit breaker trip without the element plugged in? Also where are you? There maybe someone just down the street that could help you out? ETA: Can...

I'd do: Warrior to desired IBUs @60 .33 oz each Centennial & Amarillo @20 @5 & @dry/keg hop 14days

Agreed. I only use crimp connectors where I have to. Just adds another connection to heat up from voltage drop.

Is it stranded or solid? If solid switch to stranded. If you are already using stranded try crimping AND soldering the connector on. Sometimes you can get a voltage drop across a connector like that. Example: 2V drop across crimp and connection X 30amps would be 60 Watts of point load heat...

bitter it a little. I'd carb or you'll lose out on some aroma. And carbonic bite won't be present so you'll get less of an idea of what it'd be like in a beer. You could carb low ~1.8 volumes if you wanted.

Done. I'm sure you'll put this info to good use. I've found some interesting things on your webpage. I agree FWH contributes flavor but NOT aroma... wasn't a choice but put agree to both...

I've only got 2 brews in on mine so far (transitional phase) and it took me 2 years to get everything :mug: my budget might be tighter than many though. I still need to get my kettles welded...