Recent content by bgough

yes :D I'm just giving you a hard time, but here is my FWIW: Only culture yeast from bottles that is hard or impossible to obtain otherwise. 1056 is readily available in both liquid and dry form from anywhere you can buy brewing supplies. Also, never raise the temp of your beer to 180...

Mashed at 170, pitched yeast from 4 Sierra bottles (which aren't even bottle conditioned, but are krausened), racked to secondary at 1.037, and now are considering raising beer temp to 180...honestly man, I hate to say this, but you should probably stick to buying beer.

Not sure what you mean...

It probably tastes light and hoppy because you made a beer with a 1.050 OG and 135 IBU's!!! I wouldn't worry about it now, but next time use 9 or 10 lbs of LME for a big IPA like that. I agree that there is really no need to transfer to secondary. And I know everyone on here says you need...

Has anyone used the White Labs WLN1000 Yeast Nutrient? It says to add 1/2 tsp per 5 gallons, but if I add it to a starter, do I add a full 1/2 tsp based on the overall beer volume, or do I scale back based on the starter size?

I know it was an extract batch, that's why I added the "in AG" qualifer. I've probably used Wlp300 more than any other yeast besides 001 and I certainly have never seen it go 90%. His reading is either off significantly or he got some wild yeast in there.

If it tastes alright, it's probably not really at 1.003 and I would calibrate your hydrometer. If it is really at 1.003, then something went wrong, and it probably doesn't taste right. To calibrate your hydro, fill your flask with distilled water at 60*F and make sure that it reads 1.000...

BTW a 4/11/11 best buy date equals a 12/11/10 production date. White labs dates are 4 months, not 3, after production. So, you actually may have needed to make a bigger starter

171 ppm of chloride and less than 3ppm of sulfate is not going to make a very good apa or ipa. IMO in those beers you need higher sulfate ratio

If I take a mash PH reading, and it is too high, ho0w much lactic acid would I need to add in order to get it into range? Is there a formula or equation?

Right, but if you design a beer that is 100% malt and sub out a portion of the fermentables for lactose it does effect abv. For example, if he had a stout recipe on beer smith, and deleted some of his base malt/extract and added lactose to reach his OG, then less fermentables = lower abv.

umm...changing the FG DOES effect abv. If he had brewed a 1.060 stout that had no lactose, the extra fermentables would raise the abv.

An off flavor that gets progressively worse could be the sign of contamination. Check your cleaning/sanitation practices and replace anything plastic (bucket, racking cane, transfer tubing) if you're really worried about it.

Certain esters are created by dry hopping while the yeast is still active. The information came from some study that was funded by sierra nevada i think.

There have been studies done that show specific qualities are obtained from dry hopping during the end of fermentation, while the yeast is still active. These qualities are impossible to get from the hops if you add them after fermentation has complmeted.