Recent content by bce22

I carbed it with priming sugar (.75 oz for approx. 1.2 volumes of CO2). CO2 level seems to be about right for a dry stout. I'm using beer gas. I asked for 75%, 25% mix, however it's possible they messed up when filling it and it's 80%, 20%. I don't know for certain. I have a stout faucet...

Good Morning: I was hoping that I could get some help troubleshooting my new nitrogen setup. When I pour a glass of dry stout I am not getting the cascade effect and the foam head is not nearly as thick and creamy as a guiness for example. Here is what I have done so far. Primed my...

Good day homebrewers! I have a quick question about a beer I will brewing today. I got the recipe from brewing classic styles by Jamil and have a question about how much water to dilute my wort in my fermentor. These recipes are based on 7 gallon full boil with 6 gallons at end of boil...

It depends on a lot of issues: What type of yeast did you use? Is this an extract recipe? How many gravity points are you from FG? How long has it been fermenting? What temperature is it fermenting at? These are some of the questions I would consider prior to thinking about pitching...

generally, you want to get the temperature down to yeast pitching temps (under 75F) as quickly as possible. This allows for an efficient cold break. Cold break protein left in the beer can lead to chill haze (cosmetic) and other minor issues. check out...

Well, by adding water you are lowering the OG of your beer. It will be lower in alcohol, however its still beer. Personally I wouldn't have tossed out wort. It's fermentable, through it in your bucket. What you would have ended up with is more lower alcohol beers. But don't worry at all...

I'm going to guess that the simplest solution is most probably the correct solution. So i will say that if most of the bottles are carbed than the ones that are flat were either not capped correctly or you didn't get the priming sugar in the bottles. Maybe someone else can chime in, but you...

If your going to move it to the secondary I would still make sure that primary fermentation is complete. A few days before you plan on racking the beer take a gravity sample. Then the next day or the day after, take another one. If the SG is unchanged you primary fermentation is probably...

I don't recall seeing how long it's been since bottling your beer. The minimum is 3 weeks at 70F and the bigger the beer (higher the OG) the longer it can take to carb. If you haven't already check out Revvy's blog at: http://blogs.homebrewtalk.com/Revvy/

Cool beans, just don't want to give anyone an idea of starting a "do i have to worry about autolysis during bottle conditioning" ammo :)

The only thing I would add to this is the yeast aren't typically dead, they are just in hibernation. You can actually cultivate yeast from the bottom of a bottle condition beer.

Sediment in the bottom of the bottles is perfectly normal. It's caused by the yeast still left in the beer dropping out of suspension and to the bottom of the bottle. With some practice you will be able to pour your beer into a glass and leave only the sediment behind. Don't worry, your...

There is nothing wrong with Clear (or green) bottles, as long as you keep them out of the light. Light will cause your beer to skunk. It can happen in a brown glass bottle as well, but it is more likely to happen in a clear or green bottle. Keep them covered and out of the light and your...

Excellent post and welcome. Sounds like you had a very very successful brew day. You'll learn something new each time you brew. I had a similiar experience with my first PM, except that I lost temp faster than I expected rather than increased temp on the burner. What I do now is set my oven...

I like to do that with all beers that do not require the addition of fruit, etc. I'll leave it in the primary for 3 to 4 weeks then bottle. I then will start sampling most beers after three weeks to check the progress. For example I bottled a high gravity scotch ale and a irish red on the...