Recent content by BBboomer

I will be very interested to see the results. I recently purchased the big banjo burner and except for vastly improving the roiling boil, it doesn't seem to heat the water any faster.

Listen to WBC, he has it right on the mark. It is the PH of the MASH not the water! 5.2 may not hurt anything, but if you don't need it save the money for things you do need.

I use a converted keg for mashing with a Sabco false bottom. It is hinged in the middle and the dip tube goes through that to nearly the bottom of the keg. The drain valve is about 4 inches above the bottom of the keg. It leaves about a quart of liquid in the bottom when drained completely. I...

You can't get to where you want to be till you know where that is. Find out what the water needs to be for the beer you want to brew. Use the info in Palmers book to determine what you need to do to modify your water to match the recipe's water. Other than that brew with what you have it will...

One thing I see in your report you do need to address is the chlorine. You need to filter your water through a charcoal filter to take care of that, then it looks like you are good to go with just about anything you want to brew. I highly recommend a software program like ProMash to help you...

Just a thought here... Could it be scorching from the bottom of the flask?

I have built several of these and may have the solution to your problem or maybe problems. 1. You need fairly powerful magnets, the little round disks R Shack sells will work but I had to have four on each side. 2. The magnets must be mounted north side up on one side and north side down on...

Got Trub is right on the mark! The PH of your water is not the most relevant factor. It is the PH of the mash itself. The addition of grains, especially the darker grains will reduce the PH of the mash as a whole therfore testing the water prior to mash does not give a true reflection of the...

I recently moved up to ten gallon batches too. I have a converted keg for a boil pot and also one for the MT. The keg is just big enough for a ten gallon batch. You will most likely be boiling 12 or 13 gallons which does not leave much extra cushion. Also your burner may be a little borderline...

I've been doing all grain for the last several batches but like most started with extract. I surely don't consider myself a brew guru but if I can help let me know. Darrell

Where in Oklahoma are you? I am in the OKC area.

I have the adjustable model. I bought the "bare bones" version and built the base and hopper for it. I can crush 15 pounds of grain in one run and using my 1/2inch drill motor it takes about 3 minutes. It is a great mill!

I'm from the Okie city area. are you anywhere close? As for starting, you already did!

Ward Labs will tell you everything you need to know. I don't remember what the test number is but just ask for the household mineral test and you'll be fine. You can compare that to the water profiles in Palmer's How To Brew for the type of beer you want to brew and get your water dead on for...

Do not use softened water for AG. Been there, done that got the T shirt. It will work fine for extract but the softener will take out the minerals you need and add sodium. Send a sample of your water to Ward Labs in Neb. They will tell you exactly what you have or don't have. Check that with...