Recent content by ahung12

I finally got around to hard-wiring the thermostat lines to a separate power cord, but something appears to be wrong. I used a three-prong power cord to join to the hot in and switched out wires, and connected the green wire of the power cord to the chassis of the fridge. I didn't make a note...

Sorry for the long delay, but I did want to come back and thank you for your help! Everything is running perfectly at this point. But to go back to your question: Correct, all my testing I did with an empty fridge and I did consider that what appeared to be short-cycling might simply be as...

I joined the two wires together, didn't touch the ground. But still running the fridge's power cable into the external temp controller, which is plugged into the wall outlet.

Makes sense now. I went ahead and jumpered the wires, and hey presto the fridge is "working". Multimeter is at the office, and I'll be traveling through the end of the week and so I will of course be a miserable mess until I get back and am able to properly test things. Here's my concern...

Dumb question: other than retaining the functioning of the lights, what is the difference between using the temp controller the "traditional" way (plugging in) vs. jumpering the wires? Either way, aren't I bypassing the stock thermostat and letting the temp controller and it's thermostat...

Aha yes, I've seen this as the permanent bypass method suggested to others. It should basically turn the thing into a freezer if the cooling system is working properly, right? I will give it a shot tomorrow.

Ah good, that makes things easier. I don't think the fridge was ever used on a constant basis. Probably just plugged in and run for testing. The shelves were all zip tied to their brackets and side railings as they were from the factory.

Edit: I'm a doof . Yes, the evaporator fan is constantly running. I did indeed have it mixed up with the condenser fan. Regarding the ground: I'm planning on splicing on a 3 prong extension cable. Should I hook up the ground in the extension to the chassis in the same point as the tstat's...

Thank you kind sir! I was hoping you'd respond, I've seen your advice pop up countless times in the other threads. Will take a peek at the actual thermostat tomorrow to make sure I'm properly ID'ing the wires, and will throw up photos to double check if you don't mind.

I've seen a bunch of members already helped out with this similar issue, so I'm looking for the same guidance but on my specific application. The chiller is an IDW GS-4, and I need it to cool down to ~35 degrees F. It can only get as low as 44 degrees even after setting the coarse adjustment...