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What Tri Clover Thermowell for PID?

Discussion in 'Electric Brewing' started by benzesp, Jun 8, 2015.

 

  1. #1
    benzesp

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 8, 2015
    Which Tri Clover Thermowell are you guys using for PID control? I bought one that was supposed to accept a 4 MM probe and quickly found out the actual bore was 3.75 MM with my micrometer. If anything the bore needs to be bigger than 4 MM to accept a 4 MM probe easily. I'm using a PID with the T Probe. The one from Brew and Grow was too small and I sent it back.
     
  2. #2
    benzesp

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 9, 2015
    Guess I'm the only one with a tri clover RIMS setup.

    Made some calls, got actual ID measurements from another supplier think I found the right one. Hopefully.
     
  3. #3
    snackson

    Well-Known Member  

    Posted Jun 11, 2015
    augiedoggy, benzesp and andrewmaixner like this.
  4. #4
    augiedoggy

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 11, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2015
  5. #5
    Bowtiebrewery

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 12, 2015
    I think the Auber one is the best option for you, since the other option kind of defeats the purpose of sanitary TC connections.
     
  6. #6
    benzesp

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 12, 2015
    Thanks for the info I really like Auber, super nice! My new thermowell came in and is big enough. I'm gonna see how accurate my temps are with this option. I mounted it right before the hot wort exit in the RIMS setup. I'll post a pic of my setup once I get it running correctly in case anybody is interested in my build.
     
  7. #7
    Bowtiebrewery

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 12, 2015
    Anything with TC fittings gets me interested... Its the bling of the Brewing world
     
    benzesp likes this.
  8. #8
    augiedoggy

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 12, 2015
    I thought this was for his rims tube were sanitary connections were a moot point... especially with his heating element mounted in an unsanitary connection at the other end and temps over 150 degrees...
     
  9. #9
    Bowtiebrewery

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 15, 2015
    touche^^
     
    augiedoggy likes this.
  10. #10
    benzesp

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 15, 2015
    This is going to be the most expensive rims build ever.... I just keep buying stuff only to realize I need other stuff to work with the stuff I just bought lol.
     
  11. #11
    smithmd4

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 16, 2015
    It is kind of a black hole. There is an end in sight though.

    And despite the small fortune I paid Auber for nothing but probes and cables, they are all top notch built. Cables seem strong and the probes are built like tanks. Even the NPT probe weighs a ton for its size.
     
  12. #12
    augiedoggy

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 16, 2015
    for future use you can buy the exact same sensors and cables (they even use some of the same pictures in the ads) from the suppliers that auber buys them from on aliexpress...they even sell them in 316 stainless which some seller here argued was somehow superior to the 304grade (I dont believe it will make any difference in this application)

    http://www.aliexpress.com/item/SS31...1653174872.html?spm=2114.32010308.0.61.iaQTJb
     
    benzesp likes this.
  13. #13
    benzesp

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 20, 2015
    Running strong! Mocked up some step mash profiles on 4 gallons of H20 this evening. worked great. Temp is within +- 1 Deg from actual kettle temp. Ramp up from 100 to 142 deg was about 15 min, 142 to 169 was about the same.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. #14
    augiedoggy

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 23, 2015
    Curious, how many watts is your rims? I get 2 degrees rise per minute from 70 all the way up to 154 when heating just over 5 gallons of water.... My rims is 1800w. I use lower flow 24v pumps so its only like 2.2-2.4gpm at the most during the test.
    I see your using an stc which unless your using another relay can only safely control up to 10 amps but if it's 220v that's a lot... Being that it has slower relay control how bad does it over\ undershoot on temps from the pauses between being able to switch?
     
  15. #15
    benzesp

    Well-Known Member

    Posted Jun 23, 2015
    Yea I have a SSR on the STC unit since it is 10Amps, I made a custom heatsink with a 1/8" copper slug and rated 65w cpu heatsink, was able to close the box that way. I'm on a 120(ish)v 20A line in the garage. I think my element is 1800w, I can't remember but I bought the one that was max for my setup. I actually took some stop watch data. I see an average rise rate of 2.2 Deg/Min. My initial estimates were off. However it's pretty decent. Laws of physics and thermal dynamics apply here.

    I manage a overshoot of 1Deg once the kettle temp stabilizes. @ an appropriate flow rate for recirc. I don't have a flow meter so it'a eyeballing it. This is all with 4.25 gallons of strike. I'm going t try and sim a 10 gallon run later.

    Been a fun little project. Next time I'll build one it will be software controlled, and 220v capable I have some appropriate SSR's for it. I do enjoy the tactile experience with this one. I like the fact that it's mobile and I can take it to a buddy's house easily, plus it's easy to clean up.
     
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